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Geometry settings



497adam

ClioSport Club Member
  clio 172 phase 2
As an example here is our car on track, using road setup (slightly under 1 degree of camber and toe set to 0 degrees)

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?660036-Video-of-our-RS2-clio-172-at-combe-today


Sure it would be a better track car (its not one, its her daily) with slightly more camber, but it really isnt as essential as people make out, where as having NO play in any of the steering components is.

Pinsharp handling comes as standard on the RS clios, but sadly most of them now are just worn out!

Is the 1 degree of negative from camber bolts or just the lowered standard set up?
 

497adam

ClioSport Club Member
  clio 172 phase 2
Thinking about getting it set up properly now most of the front suspension has been refreshed
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Did you swap to all cup parts - hubs ect

Cup hubs arent any different.

The arms are only different between early and late, everything from about 2003 onwards is the "cup" arms whether its a cup or not.

We fitted some new late arms and some new cup shocks, and we were on eibach springs but now have cooksports on the front and eibach on the back which is the best combination we've found to suit our preferences with the car.

Make sure there is NO play in the rod ends, rods, balljoints and steering rack bushes before you get it geo'd, it makes a hell of a difference if there is any play or not.
 

497adam

ClioSport Club Member
  clio 172 phase 2
68k car so far replaced, shocks, springs, wishbones and strut top mounts
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Wouldnt bother then TBH, you gain a little tiny bit of camber just by lowering it and even as standard they handle well anyway.
 
  Inferno 182FF
Awesome thread this, just what I was looking for. Does anyone know a good place in the NE that does geometry?
 
Its all personal preference really, but this is what i'd chose for my own car.

For the camber you want about 1.5-2.0 degrees negative on the front for fast road use. At the rear you need shims to adjust the camber and the toe, so you'll not be bothering with that.

For the tracking you want to be toe out by about 5 minutes, but not much more. It gives good turn in, but at the expense of a slightly twitchy steering feel. Nothing horrendous though unless you have to much.
Failing that go for parallel or a very small amount of toe in if you don't fancy the twitchy steering.

If you have Ast top mounts, set them for maximum castor.

excellent thread, getting my tracking and alignment done today, will use this
 
biit annoyed now as just been told by guy at ats that he can only put standard settings back in on his machine. im on like 3 degree camber at moment after fitting those camber bolts. just wanted 2 deg at least and not 1 on front, anyone able to recommend a place in west yorkshire?
 
biit annoyed now as just been told by guy at ats that he can only put standard settings back in on his machine. im on like 3 degree camber at moment after fitting those camber bolts. just wanted 2 deg at least and not 1 on front, anyone able to recommend a place in west yorkshire?

Can't he just put it back to standard and manually add the camber?
 
he wont add the camber back in being stubborn, its on like 2.5 front atm, and he wants to take it to like 1.3, mite just leave camber where it is.
 
Heres where its at currently. How would you do it for fast road...and the rear camber...do i just stick a shim on one side to try and level it out? I dont have a clue about geo :(

IMG-20130731-WA0008_zpsd03c3d1b.jpg
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
Put a 1 degree camber shim on the o/s/r and put a 20 minute shim on the n/s/r. That'll level that out better and give you 1.5 degrees negative camber.
As for the front, if its a fast road setup you want get the camber set to 2 degrees neg. The tracking is a country mile out though on the front!!!!! Get it set to anywhere from parallel to 10 minutes toe out on the front. How that's currently set will be knocking the b****cks out of the inside edge.
 
  172 Cup Jenvey'd
His toe is 1.30 and 0.41? Thats wayyyy off, like northloop has said it will be shredding tyres bigstyle.
 
  Inferno 225 cup
Guys I've just gone for mine to be done and this is the result.
ubygy7at.jpg


Not a clue what's cracking off on the rear.
 
  Inferno 225 cup
Looks to me like you need a 30 minute shim for the camber and a 10 minute shim for the toe on the o/s/r. You'll level it out pretty much **** on then. You've got over 5mm of toe in on the rear!!! That's a lot mate!!

Now you've lost me chap, Any ideas on where I can get them from? Possibly need a new rear beam?
 

Adamm.

ClioSport Club Member
His toe is 1.30 and 0.41? Thats wayyyy off, like northloop has said it will be shredding tyres bigstyle.

Stupid me I was looking at the rear toe :eek:.

​Yeah that must feel terrible. Mine at -0.50 would squeal under light cornering.
 
  172 Cup Jenvey'd
Heres mine that ive just had done.. All standard just with the requested 0.05' toe out, nice to Dr my axles kinda straight too!

Will aim for 2degree camber on the front as soon as I sort out sone bilstein coilovers and il leave the back as it is.

DSC_1390_zpsf54e293d.gif
 
  172 Cup Jenvey'd
Cant wait.. Need to save up my pennies now for bilsteins, not sure why theres no castor reading, forgot to point that out to the lad :/
 
  Ph1 daily & ph2 race
I've seen a couple fiesta and proton cup guys using washers instead of shims for minor toe adjustments. Sounds like a bodge but would work fine?
 


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