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For me, one of the important parts when changing the oil is to use a magnetic sump plug and inspect for debris due to engine wear. Can’t do this when pumping the oil out. Old ways are the best ways on this one for me.

It would be illegal to tow a clip on it. It’s not your cars actual weight anyway it’s the gross weight.

Lol, time, motivation and space issues are all going against me. Will have a think though and see what needs done. It's been so long since I've even seen it.

Not updated in a long time as the car has been in storage at my cousins for the 2 years due to me moving house and been busy with kids etc. He's now moving and needs the car gone so I've now got to decide to break it, finish it or sell as is. Let me know if anyone has any interest as is or...

That looks nasty, hope you awere ok! What suspension and tyre setup were you running? Did you hit a Kerb or cut the corner before the corner? Shows you how easy it can happen.

Good choice IMO.

Need to change the lower gearbox (dog bone) mount I think.

On the Clio when it was NA and used on the road and track it was 5w40. When it became only for track use and turbo'd it uses 15w50 competition and I use 10w40 chrono on my Impreza p1 which is for road use and mildly modified.

Motul 300v

Intercooler is and XS Power from an 200sx and the pipes are all custom.

Meganes Pistons foul on the valve of a 172/182 head off phase.

Actual in brackets.

If your doing it diy with jacks and axle stands I would say your best bet is to remove the engine and box from the top. You can get it out from the top on its own but would take a good amount of practice so not for this attempt.

Have you inspected the pressure plate since fitting? Maybe some are better than others.

I think they are not heat stable and warp under extreme heat. Once this happens, the pressure plate can be machined flat and it doesn't do it again. It's a pig to machine but can be done.

What's the mileage now? Lol Depends on how a competent DIYer you are. As a guess I would say it is the alternator but that is just a guess. It will just get louder if you leave it but shouldn't fail catastrophically.

If it's the PS pump then it could just be the level. That's best case! The whine could be the pump cavitating but that can also happen if it's on it's way out. If the whine increases and drops with the revs then it sounds more like a bearing. When were the belts changed?

Bearing on alternator or PS pump I would think. Does it get louder if you turn the steering wheel?

Bottle and pumps are in the scuttle panel so don't think you would have damaged them. Check the wiring around the gearbox for damage then it will be out with the meter to fault find.

Check the fuse.

This manifold sounds perfect for a turbo build so why go back to the old 2 piece inlet manifold? If you get a manifold that works well for NA and can cope with a bit of pressure, it will work even better for boost!

Why did you remove it then?

I've got extended bolts. I'll check the length tomorrow if you are interested.

It's a map sensor that's used on these cars so won't be the inlet to head gasket as it's working with pressure and not flow. In my experience, O2 sensors usually need changed rather than cleaned but worth a try.

I would check the first O2 sensor next then.

That should have read 'can't' for the belt rotation but I hope everyone got that anyway!

They are an upgrade but they also mean you can do the belt rotation step during the cambelt change. This makes equalising the tension more difficult which can negate the gains of upgraded cams if the timing is slightly out.

Not much really, been working any building a new engine for my P1 which is now done so just enjoying that. Got a FRS gearbox for measuring up but not started it yet as I'm moving house soon and don't want the car in bits for the move.

Fuel atomisation may be a problem on standard injectors.

Seven years, you must have had to repeat a few years. Lol