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just to add to the last post, there is a earth for earth for each of the rear clusters as well that causes trouble, best to clean those as well, they are behind the carpet in the boot, as for the speedo, if the clusters arnt messing it around there is some times a bad connection on the plug on...

mine did the same and it was a combination of a dirty TB, bad map sensor and bad coolant temp sensor, normally when the crank sensor goes it just swings and wont fire, BUT, id give all those sensors a clean, sometimes metal dust sticks to the tdc sensor and messes it around, map sensor is easy...

if the immobilizer light flashes or stays on solid that indicates there may be a problem with the key or the encoder ring, ive also had some cases where bad earths mess around with everything, so you can try give all the earth points a clean around the engine bay, theres around 5 of them

silly question, but do you have a spare key?

i just used a generic gator, been working fine for years, if theres no play on the inner joint then take the ball joint out the hub, crack the locknut and count the turns that the ball joint comes off... reverse to put back, if you out by any half a turn when putting it back then you should feel...

Check the earths, there are several of them in the engine bay and often cause the electronics to go haywire

yep, thats the fuel rail that needs replacing, just make sure you only get the rail and not the injectors along with it, else you will be charged a mint

ive had worse ? connectors have arrived so ill keep them in the cubby as a threat... if the original messes around again then ill change them. fixed a lot of problems by scaring the original components into working like that lol

im not sure what they are called but they can be bought, similar to a riv nut, but with clips both sides something like this...

ive cleaned the throttle body more times than i can count witch either cures it briefly or does not make a difference, ive ordered a aftermarket waterproof plug, planning to solder some wires on the board and use the aftermarket plug as the factory one is crap... done the same on some other...

so was driving along, went to overtake another car and when i came off the gas, it just carried on going, so eased on the brakes then tapped the go pedal and it came right... now this generally would be a sticky throttle cable... but mine is a ph2, electronic throttle body. has anyone...

they do seem to seep through the bearing a bit, does not seem to effect the level much between services on mine though...

more than likely a bad connection on the stalk or the light clusters them selves, check the earths as well

looks juicy

theres door open/closed switches on the bottom corners of the door aperture as well, door lock switches are built into the central locking actuators... look like these...

Most of those alarms are aftermarket and wired in, i think some came fitted from dealerships, normally under the dash somewhere, mabe follow the wires from the led till you get to the unit amd check for any damage to the loom and plugs

do you mean the immobilizer light in the center of the cluster or a after market alarm led?

well i got a 12 ton bottle jack that i used on a home made press and i needed to extend the poll to push those buggers out... so yea you could do it with a really big hammer... problem is how to keep the hub level, I used a bunch of off cuts, you could do the same. you could also try using a big...

post a vid?

looks like 2 cylinders are burning richer, could be injector problem, could be compression problem, easy enough to check for both, can swap injectors around and see if the wetter and blacker plugs follow the injector, and compression test will show if there are bad cylinders...

check for brake cylinder leaks, had the same thing, both rear cylinders were leaking, could also be stuck slider pins

not sure exactly how many ply, was the thinner stuff, 6 ply probably, was around 10mm thick

ive replaced mine with carpeted plywood, just need to cut it a tad smaller than the original so it fits

had to get my drive shafts refurbished, outer joints went but gave me a noise similar to a bad wheel bearing and would make one hell of a vibration through the steering at around 100kph accompanied by a high pitched whiring vibration louder than my exhaust, i initially changed the front bearings...

solid red when starting is normal, or is it staying on even after starting?

easy to get off, can be a real pain in the arse to get the threads started when putting back, also make sure the o-ring stays in place otherwise she will obviously leak...

there are 3 little black relays that control the ignition, rad fan etc, as well as the bigger ones that run the heavy load stuff, if the starter isnt kicking in then try changing the starter relay, if its swinging but not firing you can try swapping the little black relays around, also make sure...

you may just need to clear all faults using a obd reader

catch can would mount in the line going from the valve cover to the inlet so run any pipes coming from the vc to the inlet through the can

fuel trims seem a bit high, normally they range from +20 to -20, those are the max stops unless theres something wierd going on, your map pressure is also varying more than it should... if you have any start pilot stuff spray it around the joins in the vacuum hoses and see if the revs bounce or...