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More weight loss...



  172, BMW 650i & X5
Hi All, been hunting around car for more weight loss and am now looking at the dash thinking 'you're a bit chubby'

Advice really, I want to trim back wiring loom where possible (any unused plugs I'll strip wiring back to main loom). I'm thinking of just binning dash, support brace etc and wiring in an Ignition/start panel (with water temp guage, fan switch & oil pressure gauge). Is there any requirement for dash cluster/speedo etc (don't see need and can keep cluster to plug in if need to anyway)?

So, Any thoughts or intelligent (experienced) advice appreciated. Many thanks in advance...

Car pic for reference
12828545_1232630713416967_3877888540386706328_o.jpg
 
  Clio 220 PH2
Hi All, been hunting around car for more weight loss and am now looking at the dash thinking 'you're a bit chubby'

Advice really, I want to trim back wiring loom where possible (any unused plugs I'll strip wiring back to main loom). I'm thinking of just binning dash, support brace etc and wiring in an Ignition/start panel (with water temp guage, fan switch & oil pressure gauge). Is there any requirement for dash cluster/speedo etc (don't see need and can keep cluster to plug in if need to anyway)?

So, Any thoughts or intelligent (experienced) advice appreciated. Many thanks in advance...

Car pic for referenceView attachment 155116
On my 182 and I am not sure of its different in yours I have got rid of the dash bar because of my cage and I will only be running the top of the dash and with the speedo bolted to it the dash is pretty stable. And the top of the dash does really weight anything. The dash bar has pretty good weight to it. The bottom of my dash was pretty heavy with all the controls in it as well
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Excellent, cheers. I have all lower working removed anyhow. Matrix, controls etc, more cosmetic really. Access is a plus. I'd be happy with engine and wheels alone!
 
  Clio 220 PH2
Excellent, cheers. I have all lower working removed anyhow. Matrix, controls etc, more cosmetic really. Access is a plus. I'd be happy with engine and wheels alone!
No worries mate, do you still run the standard boot on it because getting rid of the wires from that to the fuse box saves some weight. If you run aero catches on the boot getting rid of the lock and wires from that as well helps. The door closed switches get rid of them as well and wire them up so it thinks they are shut all the time, saves a little bit more
 
Get cutting Mark!
Wouldn't mind getting a look at your shift light set up bud. All i want is necessity items. Autograss makes my Clio look really really overweight!
General idea below but I'll tidy up my way... View attachment 155144

http://www.caraddiction.co.uk/sld5.htm
I know it can be done cheaper, but it's sequential, flashes different colours, and I'm a tart :tongueout:
I don't really want to take any more out of mine, if I could trailer it, I'd be out there now cutting it to bits, keeping it semi sensible as I need an mot, and as you know, our mots are a bit more strict than the backstreet garages others can slip a tenner to!
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
No worries mate, do you still run the standard boot on it because getting rid of the wires from that to the fuse box saves some weight. If you run aero catches on the boot getting rid of the lock and wires from that as well helps. The door closed switches get rid of them as well and wire them up so it thinks they are shut all the time, saves a little bit more
Aye not a lock left anywhere in the car. And boot and doors well skinned (doors getting more skinning though). Standard boot still there but will be going. Will do the old method of cut/check/start with the wiring until I get it down as much as possible. Doing the same with Micra at the moment so well practised.
 
  Clio 220 PH2
Aye not a lock left anywhere in the car. And boot and doors well skinned (doors getting more skinning though). Standard boot still there but will be going. Will do the old method of cut/check/start with the wiring until I get it down as much as possible. Doing the same with Micra at the moment so well practised.
Haha like your style. Have you thought about fibre glass panels ?
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
http://www.caraddiction.co.uk/sld5.htm
I know it can be done cheaper, but it's sequential, flashes different colours, and I'm a tart :tongueout:
I don't really want to take any more out of mine, if I could trailer it, I'd be out there now cutting it to bits, keeping it semi sensible as I need an mot, and as you know, our mots are a bit more strict than the backstreet garages others can slip a tenner to!
Thanks Mark. Got that head on again...
Will make a switch panel something like this and weld a new cross beam in
ctrp_0711_11_z+ignition_system+voltimeter_and_battery_switch_instrument_panel.jpg
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Haha like your style. Have you thought about fibre glass panels ?
No mate, I don't mind getting the hands dirty but keeping this a total budget machine. Big believer in simplicity & weight loss. Have 2 other projects on the go at the moment so monies going else where. If I think it can be cut or shaved it will be. I'll be in garage on sat and will get some pics
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Those stickers on your car must weigh 4 grams..
Probably so but keeps kid happy. Now he's getting his own mine might be due a respray next winter. It all counts bud. Been looking at Yuasa 12v bike battery at 2.5kg as opposed to standard 11kg one. Much cheaper at £20 than 'Race Battery' at £80-£125. As Tesco say, every little helps
 
  Clio 220 PH2
That looks awesome! May I ask how you painted the cage? Did you just mask everything off and paint the cage? I'm asking because I'm getting a custom cage and can't decide which is the best order to paint, either the cage or the car first, as I'm painting my cage and interior different colours like yours.
Cheers mate :), we painted the inside of the car first including the cage (white) then we masked the whole inside of the car bar the cage and then painted it green. It is a pig of a job as you can not touch the cage but worth it when it's done. What colours are you thinking ? If you paint the cage first and mask it it will be harder to paint the car because of the masking in the way and there a high chance of over spray on the cage
image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
Cheers mate :smile:, we painted the inside of the car first including the cage (white) then we masked the whole inside of the car bar the cage and then painted it green. It is a pig of a job as you can not touch the cage but worth it when it's done. What colours are you thinking ? If you paint the cage first and mask it it will be harder to paint the car because of the masking in the way and there a high chance of over spray on the cage
View attachment 155415
View attachment 155416

I've had the cage custom made by a guy at my dad's work, so I've got all the pieces but none of it has been welded in yet nor has the inside of the car been painted. I was going to paint everything at my mate's house in his garage, however I've toyed around with the idea of getting the cage painted before it going in the clio, but mask off the areas where its going to get welded. Then I'd paint the inside of the car again except for the areas where the cage will be welded in. After that I'd weld in the cage and touch up the areas that hadn't been painted.

It'd be a bit awkward to do as I don't have access to a big paint booth, nor the money to take it to get it professionally done. And since my dad's work does painting, he is able to get it painted there, but I can't take the whole car there to get it painted because I'm already getting the cage for free out of good will of my dad's boss so don't want to take too many liberties haha.

My clio is black, so I plan on doing the inside of the car matte black, with a bright red cage, dash inserts, badges, and possibly red alloys as its purely a track toy.
 
  Clio 220 PH2
I've had the cage custom made by a guy at my dad's work, so I've got all the pieces but none of it has been welded in yet nor has the inside of the car been painted. I was going to paint everything at my mate's house in his garage, however I've toyed around with the idea of getting the cage painted before it going in the clio, but mask off the areas where its going to get welded. Then I'd paint the inside of the car again except for the areas where the cage will be welded in. After that I'd weld in the cage and touch up the areas that hadn't been painted.

It'd be a bit awkward to do as I don't have access to a big paint booth, nor the money to take it to get it professionally done. And since my dad's work does painting, he is able to get it painted there, but I can't take the whole car there to get it painted because I'm already getting the cage for free out of good will of my dad's boss so don't want to take too many liberties haha.

My clio is black, so I plan on doing the inside of the car matte black, with a bright red cage, dash inserts, badges, and possibly red alloys as its purely a track toy.
Well what I wanted to do was very similar to what you have said is to paint the cage first and grind away or mask off where the welds will be but because the cage was fitted not by myself the company said not to paint it so we had the pain in the ass job of doing it the hard way. I would say get as much paint on the hard to reach areas as possible to avoid missing bits. I would say paint the inside before the cage goes in and take the paint off the weld areas because once the cage is in you lose so much space and it's really hard to work round increasing the chance of a mistake. I was luck to have a booth at work or I would of spray it at home as well.
That colour scheme will look smart I think bright colours are a must on a track car lol
 
Well what I wanted to do was very similar to what you have said is to paint the cage first and grind away or mask off where the welds will be but because the cage was fitted not by myself the company said not to paint it so we had the pain in the ass job of doing it the hard way. I would say get as much paint on the hard to reach areas as possible to avoid missing bits. I would say paint the inside before the cage goes in and take the paint off the weld areas because once the cage is in you lose so much space and it's really hard to work round increasing the chance of a mistake. I was luck to have a booth at work or I would of spray it at home as well.
That colour scheme will look smart I think bright colours are a must on a track car lol

Thanks for the advice. Think I am going to mask off the weld areas and paint it before it goes in. Thought about grinding off the paint in the weld areas but the paint used at my dad's work is a 4-stage paint process designed for marine use (think structures on boats and oil rigs) so its pretty tough and is quite thick, meaning its quite tough to remove with the grinder without making it look messy. I'll just touch up the weld areas once its welded in. I'm getting it done for free though so I'm not gonna compain!
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
More work to be done. Doors getting lightened more, tailgate too and dash ripped out. Alrrady trimmed gear box mount, engine mount next. Headlights (most of) gone too
20160514_150532.jpg
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20160514_130938.jpg
 
  Clio 220 PH2
Thanks for the advice. Think I am going to mask off the weld areas and paint it before it goes in. Thought about grinding off the paint in the weld areas but the paint used at my dad's work is a 4-stage paint process designed for marine use (think structures on boats and oil rigs) so its pretty tough and is quite thick, meaning its quite tough to remove with the grinder without making it look messy. I'll just touch up the weld areas once its welded in. I'm getting it done for free though so I'm not gonna compain!
I would do what you are going to do it will give you the best coverage and so much easier to paint and if it's being done for free then it's a bonus. It would be nice to see it once it's all painted :)
 

cs_dave

West Midlands
ClioSport Area Rep
Wouldnt triming the gearbox mount of made it weak. Im intrested as i would like to do it in mine more for looks than weight loss tho

Cheers
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Update. Ripped dash out, removed bars and trimmed loom. Filled 2 Tesco carrier bags with wiring alone and fairly weighty (maybe 5kg). Probably same weight in bars etc, and same again roughly in dash. All in all maybe 12 - 15 kg and workings all on show now and easier dealt with. Passengers seat going too (into Nissan) so should be around another 10kg. Doors getting full diet programme (even more than they are now), hopefully another 3-5kg. Hoping around 30kg total.
Might even have to spend a pound or two over the winter if i want anything more, can't see it happening though (wouldn't spend xmas!)
20160523_182153.jpg
 
  Clio 220 PH2
You can definitely get a good amount out of the dash loom. Wouldn't say it's worth it for weight loss as you'd remove the same weight taking a jumper off lol.

Here was my pile.

26965470291_4a78dee252_c.jpg
Untitled by Arran Bell, on Flickr
Have you taken the wires out of the fuse box or just cut them back ?
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
All cut back from unused plugs to source. Only really plugs for dash cluster (2) and 1 either side of car for lights left. Left in Airbag module and fuse box as i know feck all about them and woukd probably be left with a dead car. Balls not big enough for that yet.
Cut test cut test was my method.
Like I said filled 2 carrier bags so well pleased. I like simplicity where possible and this leaves everything far more accessible.
Will reconnect cluster repositioned in centre of dash tilted towards me. Good for me, good for camera.
Only really doing all this out if boredom and a mikd case of auto anorexia! Oh, and it's FREE
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Wouldnt triming the gearbox mount of made it weak. Im intrested as i would like to do it in mine more for looks than weight loss tho

Cheers
Yes and no. Leave plenty of 45 degree 'webbing' for support and it'll be fine. Cut right angles and it'll crack along edge
 
  172 Ph1
Cracking read [emoji1303]
Bloody good effort also.
Will read all of the thread later .

I'm also in the middle of doing my loom .
So far I've removed
Rear loom for wiper and lock loom
b2c11a1c0e4c686c6d49bd74eccfd5b2.jpg


Also airbag loom and aircon/heater .

4680758697eb193108bb353fc7e24a45.jpg


388f15aa64dd6439c670ac28dcc36bdf.jpg


Just need to sort out the EPAS wiring while I'm in the area [emoji12]
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Cracking read [emoji1303]
Bloody good effort also.
Will read all of the thread later .

I'm also in the middle of doing my loom .
So far I've removed
Rear loom for wiper and lock loom
b2c11a1c0e4c686c6d49bd74eccfd5b2.jpg


Also airbag loom and aircon/heater .

4680758697eb193108bb353fc7e24a45.jpg


388f15aa64dd6439c670ac28dcc36bdf.jpg


Just need to sort out the EPAS wiring while I'm in the area [emoji12]
I actually dont run PAS or EPAS, just looped the rack and lost the bits. Shite for parking but great feel on track.
Would love to remove airbag wiring but don't know enough to do it. More of a hammer and grinder man.
I'll post pics hopefully at weekend of a weightloss tour of mine. Be warned though, prettyness is not my thing, think more agricultural...
 
  Clio 172 Merc ML55
Top work, I've just picked up a second loom to start playing around with and ditching everything that's not needed. I'm hoping to lose all the airbag odds in one go ;)
 
  172, BMW 650i & X5
Top work, I've just picked up a second loom to start playing around with and ditching everything that's not needed. I'm hoping to lose all the airbag odds in one go :wink:
Does anyone have a definitive guide for losing airbag set up?
I learn as i go along but don't want a brick or a go slow because I don't know what I'm doing?
 
  172 Ph1
Does anyone have a definitive guide for losing airbag set up?
I learn as i go along but don't want a brick or a go slow because I don't know what I'm doing?

I don't have one , I just took the lot out , power and Earth go to loom joint behind glovebox , all other wires cut out . One goes to lamp in cluster , all others from ECU go to bags and sensors . Bin that lot .
 


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