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All lip seals can be done without the tooling so long as you fit them ‘true’ and that you don’t damage/deform them. They’re all pretty easy with the exception of that inlet cam seal, which is plastic. Disrespect it in any way and it’ll leak!
The plastic seal has a guide installed, mainly to...
If it were both, you wouldn't have anything more than 2.5krpm. Sounds more wiring related but you still really need to do some basic component and wiring tests to be able to say with confidence "it's fixed"
Gates kits are utter Chinesium trash these days, so spend the extra and just get the OE kit. They only Gates component in the OE kit is the belt itself. It's the nasty water pump they bundle has a bearing that I wouldn't trust on a set of bike stabilisers and the rest of the furniture just looks...
Water pump - absolutely NO sealant required on a genuine pump/gasket combo. Just make sure the mating face is clean and has no traces of old gasket remains. Bolt up finger tight, make sure the bearing runs ok, finally torque to spec and that's it... job, jobbed!
Cam seals (assuming timing end)...
Which potentiometer, there's two? You've got a tracked pair at the pedal and another pair at the throttle body.
Ideally, you're going to need to get a scope on the tracks and look for noise in the signals. If they're all nice and clean and range correctly, you're going to need to do some...
It really depends on the actual fault as they all manifest with the same symptom but the diagnosis can be slightly different. Ultimately though, constructing a new mini loom from pedal to ECU and then ECU to TB works great (Depending on the ability of the person building the loom sections).
You’ll need to fault finding the circuits controlled by that 5A fuse. Chances are, it’ll be a door lock actuator or damaged wiring, in the flexi sections of the door looms.
You’ll need to do some investigation though as a plug-in diagnostic isn’t likely to find this one.
It could be a few things: HO2 Sensor, CTS, Map sensor, throttle body. Check everything is clean and that there are no silly little air leaks and if it still remains, you’re going to need to look at live data and potentially get some help.
ideally you need to get a volt meter on to the brake pedal circuit and see what’s happening when you press the pedal.
I suspect you’re pulling down a GND but without knowing the wiring on your specific car, I couldn’t say for sure or where.
Yeah, we can take a look in to it for you if you like Daz? Renault seems to have caved a little now and are letting some Independents with legit CLIP and ASOS access perform updates. They pulled it from us (I know Kev at Armstrongs was another effected), along with some other services, without...
Unless it’s already been forced on, ,you *shouldn’t* be able to put it on in any other position. If it had been forced on, I’d expect it to have been a complete hoof knuckle to remove to, so we can probably rule that out.
There’s no scientific explanation I can offer, as to why the wheel is now...
There was a guy on a FB group who made a really good, high quality tool. I don’t know if he’s still making them as the usual group crowds claimed £100 was too pricey and would never sell. We purchased one and it’s been nothing but worth every penny!
We can look on R-Net to see if a car has a transmission software update available and if so, apply it. Sadly, it only seems to appear on vehicles 2014 or older. Later cars all had it as standard. As above, the clutch pack and shift drums will also need calibration afterwards.
First port of call would be to get it on some better equipment. Something that can give you a Renault specific DF code would be a far better starting point. My Mk4 RS had similar issues and ended up having some wiring to the H02's done under warranty, which ultimately fixed it.
It could still be the battery, so don’t fully rule it out just yet. How is it mounted? Have you checked the main harness electrical earth, at the back of the upper gearbox case? What about the secondary loom to chassis earth, behind the passenger headlamp (this one also goes...
If you’ve got a burning clutch smell, then that 100% is *a* problem... possibly *the* problem. Sadly you need to remove the transmission and inspect the clutch to see if it’s wear/tear/age or if the clutch has failed in some other way.
The engine speed hitting a proverbial wall does indeed...
Kind of - The software running across the entire vehicle network and individual machines is what determines which functions are deployed. The problem you’ll have is that clone CLIP won’t give you access to the software library and even if you did have access, it doesn’t list everything for you...
It’s a waste spark system, so it is very simple:
Power <> switched IGN Relay controlled
Earth <> Chassis GND
Trigger (1-4) <> ECU Controlled
Trigger (2-3) <> ECU Controlled
Now you know what does what, you should be able to test and work out if and where you have a problem.