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It wasn't taken as a dig mate so no worries there. The forum is good for alternative views and opinions hence my post on here. As you say if I was just doing trackdays it would be left as is as it's reliable and mega fun
@KieranM at the moment E. seems the place to be in a clio, potentially would look at D but not convinced the clio is capable of competing in that class
@Rob as I plan to take part in SLS at Knockhill later this year and next an it runs a bhp per tonne class system. To be competitive I have worked out I need to be at roughly 900kg for the class I want to take part in.
Yip already on 15's. I have a trackday tomorrow evening, after that I'm going to make a few changes an see what I can get it down to whilst maintaining all steel panels
The cage at a guess will be 40kg of added weight. Dash wise i have the full Ph1 dash, all be it completely gutted behind as no heater/stereo etc. I will save 20kg converting to polycarbs (as ill gut the doors and remove the crash bar etc). The final 20kg is where i will struggle, remove...
Aluminium bonnet with the innards out already so not much to save there. I was ideally looking to get to 900kg without Composite panels, i'm sure its possible just looking for ideas from others as to how to achieve it
Loom is pretty bare as is, removed all heater/AC wiring, stereo wiring, rear wiper and heated screen wiring. Heater is removed aswel, i think i will order up polycarbs and FG tailgate. Target has always been 900kg
That's pretty light. I know I've a good saving to make by removing the glass in favour of polycarbonate windows. Can't see how I could get to sub 900 without fibreglass boot an removing the bottom dash
Looking to get an idea an what actual measured weight people have managed to get there track/race cars down too.
Had mine weighed today an with a passenger seat, half a tank of fuel, 8point cage, full glass and electric windows it came in at 939kg
This debate will go on for ever as everyone has a personal preference as to whether they want the noise of ITB's or performance of a turbo. Reliability is the same on either turbo or ITB providing they are built and mapped properly. I would break it down as below
If you want noise and a little...
After a few trackdays with the R88'R i find them considerably better than the old R888. The aO48'S are for competition use only so no use if you also use the car on the road or the championship/series you compete in requires a road legal tyre.
Dunlops DZ03G are a fantastic tyre (slightly better...
I have never found them that much cheaper than R888'S. Used them once and they are good but noticeably less grip than so i went back to R888 and now R888R as i can get a set fitted and balanced for £350
I will have a look for the invoice when i am home later and send you a pm with a pic of it. Those are 100% the part numbers for the cup shafts that were supplied the previous 2 times i have bought them from J&R
172 Cup shafts are single piece and don't have the support bracket on drivers side. The part numbers I gave earlier are for 172 cup shafts with single piece drivers shaft
Pulled it out the garage for a quick check over before it goes to be corner weighted an re-aligned. Gave the engine bay a quick clean an rolled it back in the garage. Will change after wheel alignment as going epas, deleting hids and a few other bits
Speak to wavetrac, they are in the process of developing a diff for the JC5. As for gripper the issues appear to have been sorted but for reasons similar to bloke i would stick with the likes of quaife
If you go quaiffe through @NorthloopCup it actually works out cheaper than the M-facory. As the price from mark is including quaiffe fitting your crownhweel, the M-Factory you need to add that cost and PMS also recommend fitting the additional retaining plate they list on there site
Agree with the above. Although if you are even half decent with spanners it is considerably cheaper to do it yourself and use the EFI module, you can turbo a clio for under £2000 and have the same end result as the ED kit
The cost of the rotrex is the main issue i would assume, its £1600 and not a serviceable item. If you are handy with spanners you can turbo a clio (with the EFI module) yourself for a few hundred £ more than the cost of just the rotrex
@Christopher do you know the cost of the supercharger kit...
Cheers guys, its a track car but i try and keep it tidy and looking half decent. Exterior is pretty much standard except lower on AST's an a few quick release fittings for the bumper. waiting on the pro 1.2's being delivered from rimstock