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Got to question. If the impact gun isn’t set to 200nm and operated correctly it shouldn’t be a problem. If a gun is used up to torque correctly and they snap then it’s just crap quality wheel bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work. I’ve recently purchased an electroplating setup so I can do the silver zinc plating passivate properly. And the gold passivate colour you get on other cars. It’s something I used to send away for a service when restoring minis but always wanted to be able to do it myself. Sent...

I have a white line RARB. I’m sure the PMS one is similar. In general people advise disconnecting them in wet conditions for this very reason. Just remove the link to the bottom shock bolt on one side and you will be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks a very nice car. I can see the appeal of going back to the clio. My mind works like this: 1) this car is so boring, I want something interesting 2) this car is so noisy and breaks all the time. I could have something nice for the parts it’s costing me. Repeat. Sent from my iPhone...

Leak down if you want to do it. You can do a compression test as well You just need a starter, flywheel, battery and jump leads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure yet. Depends a lot on the level I can get it to. Aiming to get it pretty good though. Next steps are all new brakes, including electroplating the callipers and new springs and shocks all round. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would ask for clarification if I was you. Those 3 dyno runs average at 140ish wheel horse power. There in black and white. Which would make it around 165bhp at the flywheel. If that’s the case it makes sense. And there is something to be gained back by investigating cam timing / engine...

That’s all the parts collected from paint. I’ll start fitting up this week and next. Just a few jobs to do then it’s ready for sale in the new year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On second glance your wheel horse power isn’t 165bhp. It’s 140 ish. There is definitely some gains to be had back. Most likely a cam timing thing on these engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wheel horse power is strong I would say. Normally a dyno will then run down in neutral to allow the transmission losses to be estimated. The 182 PS refers to the power at the flywheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those surfaces are usually hardened finish from the factory and should never be plated. Even if there was clearance. Wrap them in tape and plate the rest. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I seen the pictures from Dave Joyce a few months back. Absolutely gutted for you. Your right the photos don’t look that bad but the closeups are terrible. If and when you get it back out give me a shout. My mate gets a lot of cars painted to a very high standard. He has a very good eye for...

Yeah. It was the easy route and with the car going in the body shop next week I needed a simple solution. Ive kept all the aircon brackets and compressor. Give me some time to think, maybe try and get the parts gathered over time to put it back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very cool. It’s amazing the difference gearing makes to how quick a car feels. What carbs do these run as standard? Is it twin Webbers? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And that is the cam belt job done. New set of plugs from the RPD service kit. Cup alternator setup with new belt. Everything back together. Fired up first time. Body shop want this car from next Tuesday. So good timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This will be your problem. Better to have working brakes and re order the stickers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry missed you weren’t in the U.K. Cup and non cup doesn’t really matter. It’s the bolt spacing that matters. I suggested Renault Parts Direct. They are based in the U.K. and it’s basically an online shop for a dealership parts counter here (or at least that’s my understanding) I’m not...

Renault parts direct. You will likely have 54mm bolt spacing but check. Go for the cup shocks at £50 per side. They will bolt straight on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Decision made. Aircon is off. Getting the aircon all back working was looking like a £200 job. I’ve got a cup setup including alternator for £150 and I’ll likely sell the 182 alternator to get some money back. Also the rad out. I’m going to change that, looks like some idiot fired a...

This engine mount and bolts. Will just replace. Bonnet catch, bonnet pull and a load of the fixings on the slam panel. I’ve got a blast cab so will clean them up there and then try the zinc stuff. Just not sure what should be silver vs gold colour. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aw thanks. [emoji23] I’m assuming you mean the front seats. My first impression wasn’t great either with the photos. But when I went to see them in person it made sense. The passenger double seat has a stitched seam half way up the back rest and it looks better in person. The drivers seat...

Very nice. Little details like the new bonnet latch make a big difference. I’ve got a lot of surface rust on various parts in my infernos engine bay. Tempted to clean them up and maybe have a go at using one of those passivates zinc plating kits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went from a mk7 ST to an M140 with a gap in between. Also went for the auto which does make it a very different car. Better car, much faster. But ultimately less engaging. What I love about hot hatches is you can just decide on a moment to have a bit of fun. For the m140. I need to decide...

I also got the seats returned and my bed made. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s rotten along the sills and the interior is shagged. But it does go well hence using its engine for something cool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More work done tonight. Belts off and the timing tool located correctly. Belt only over the top two pulleys. I need to get the dephaser pulley loose so the belt all lines up exactly. The bottom pulley appears to be locktite in place. Which should stop it moving at least but I think...

Rust repair on the front wheel arch. I could have just patched this up. But if a jobs worth doing and all that. And here is the donor car for the engine upgrade. I’ll get the body work all finished first. Get the van back on the road then carry out the conversion once the...

He didn’t need to and you will see from the first post it’s pretty obvious with the cracked bumper and the front end alignment was all over the place. Good thing is it’s a pretty easy fix. The chassis legs are straight. I’ll straighten up the crash bar. Paint it. I’ve got another bumper lined...

Yeah it’s getting straightened out and painted. It’s obviously the reason the aircon pipes are fucked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well there is that one day a year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk