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Yeah Andy said it was running strong but didn’t really elaborate on that other than I would be losing a few from the tyres. Which I knew it would.
I could have had it mapped as it was but I want to add some mods first and get it done in one go so I can feel the benefit of the changes
This does seem to be the way I’m leaning.
I won’t lie, the stock valvetrain bothers Me somewhat if just dropping cams in.
Valves and springs will have 125k of fatigue on them now and it’s not lost on me the though of it dropping a valve.
So by time the head comes off, you wouldn’t not refresh...
Not really the right engine for my application. Paying a heap of money for a forged piston engine that will make its power on ITBs that I already don’t want to use. On ITBs I have no cold start, lose the AC, the cruise control etc.
Took WZD to see Andy @engine_dynamics today for nothing other than getting the car on the rolls for some baseline dyno runs.
There really is no point attempting to get more from the little F4R until we know how healthy it is at the moment.
Still the original motor on 125k miles now, and...
In all fairness, and call me cynical if you wish. My day job is running 8 chassis dynos with robot driven vehicles. These are some of the most advanced test cells in the industry and they’re not without their flaws. So much is so easy to manipulate, I generally don’t believe any of the chassis...
Because you only need an incremental increase in torsional stiffness to achieve the desired effect. Doing what you suggest would be far too stiff.
This is why many who add the PMS rear beam stiffening kit do not have the need to run a rear ARB. :)
The beam is a torsen bean and therefore twists to allow each side of the cars suspension to compress individually (up to a certain point).
The roll bar increases this torsional stiffness and subsequently reduces roll at the rear. Stiffening the rear alows more weight transfer across the front...
I think both the soft and race with sports cats would 100% be track friendly. Theyre not loud at all. The Cup racer with single rear box and decat i imagine would get you more black flags than Jack Sparrows crew. lol
Mine had the original option Porsche short shifter which I have to say is pretty good. This is the true meaning of the words “bolt action” though. To be honest, the price isn’t that bad $700 USD.
Kevs 100% right. Lead shot in the shift tube and a preloaded NMB bearing shut mine up to levels I can just about live with.
Failing that, new OEM with brass inserts are probably as good as you’ll get.
The likes of the CAE etc suffer less as they’re all designed for boxes with cable operated...
Superb write up and I’ve actually had the pleasure of looking over it the Thursday before it was mapped on the Friday.
I fully understand the emotional attachment and your reasons for overhauling it. I own my own 182 for the second time so fully get why you don’t want anything else for the...