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Have you taken the wheel back off to check how the sensor is currently set? If you’re not careful then they can turn without you realising when fitting the wheel.
It happened to me when I changed mine and after redoing it I never had to plug it in to reset.
I used to have a lot of issues with bluetooth on Windows 10, not had a single problem since I installed 11. I assume it just has better support on the newer OS.
I’m almost certain something will break now I’ve said that.
Can you not put some solder on the switch first and then try connecting it?
I’ve got a selection of tips for my soldering iron but even the smallest was a pain to use when I replaced the switch on mine.
Gutted, that’s what happened to mine.
I ended up getting the garage to source a decent second hand one as there were no new ones in stock at the time. Ideally I’d be looking at getting yours rebuilt or finding a new one though.
You’ll have to clean it up best you can and refill to see where it’s coming from.
One of the seals on my rack shat itself about 4 years ago and both lines were fine.
I have been using Smarty for my kids for probably 4 years now. £9 a month each for 30GB data.
Never had a problem with them, but Three has fairly decent coverage in my area.
The S doesn’t have a disc drive and the X does, so you can buy and sell games for the X - thus saving money in the long run.
Stick that in your spreadsheet.
I’m pretty sure games are Series S/X exclusive due to the newer hardware.
However, if I was looking to buy now I’d go with the X. It’s a big jump up from the S.
I’ve just been using whatever the latest driver is for a while now, all this leaving it on an older one doesn’t seem to work like it did on the original.
I’d imagine burn-in could be an issue if you’re constantly playing the same game.
Also, if you have 4k 120/144hz then I don’t see the point in dropping to 1440p. Unless you’re not utilising the full potential of your current monitor?