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three different cars on the same graph. the red one with the torque of a honda is a 182 with 197 pistons, rods, head, cams and inlets. the black is a 182 with 197 pistons, 197 cams, 182 head and 182 inlets. the blue one is a standard 182 with group n timing (wasn't meant to be on there but...

could be few things but would need to see it otherwise it's just a guessing game. anyone local ok with diagnostics?

Bit low bit nothing to worry about. Compression test doesn't really tell you much anyway.

I'd just run 182 head, less messing around and you'll get pretty similar power but with more torque. Think I've got a graph with overlay of both ways of doing it, power was almost identical but with the 182 head made about 20lb/ft more torque.

197 dephaser is fully variable, 172 is on/off.

what were emissions results? map and injector duty cycle readings at idle will let you know if it's close enough to not worry about.

renault prices are scary!!!!!!!

condensation, it's normal.

As standard it's more of a 'deflection' pulley but without aircon pump it is an idler in the true sense so is under more tension. Am sure it would probably be fine with the standard M8 bolt but I prefer belt and braces, that way less to worry about!! Pulley is about a tenner and a shorter belt...

Drill the original idler hole and tap it M10, not worth chancing that much tension and flex on an M8 bolt.

If split is small just glue it. Used j&r for years, had one boot that split after short while but fine other than that. Know plenty of people in the trade who use them as well. Only downside if you have a technical queerie they are next to useless!!!!!

Done plenty and not had problems, just make sure belt isn't too long as the front run is quite long and can slap a fair bit if the belt isn't tensioned.

Only want to chop them to try few ideas with them. Think the primaries are longer aren't they? Not actually measured them yet though. Runner sizing helps top end power as well but sacrifices torque on them.

mk2 phase 1, not mk 1. you need to run cable throttle with it.

phase 1 ecu and engine loom is best way then, can run the ecu on it's own.

what electrics do you need on the car? lights etc...

you can get a new one for about £30 for a decent make.

acetone works in two stroke engines though, tiny bit and you get decent gains from it.

someone told me if you put an alka seltzer in your fuel it raised the octane rating, the clown was deadly serious about it as well!!!!

will have a dci box back in it in a few weeks, got given one that we threw in to see how it was with the ratios but it was a piece of shite and the diff shat itself amongst other things with it.

had to wait before i left as i thought three pb cars all pulling out together could look a bit sad ?

had phone on silent most of the day sorry.

don't worry, it's just people,trying to spend your money for you ? will be fine on wastegate controlled boost.

Apexi would do it.

To be fair, I've said to Gary as well, that turbo is too big, doesn't spool anywhere near early enough and oversized for the power it's making. This is with a genuine 2560 on efi module.

yeah, just remembered sorted the one i was thinking about.

the nut and bolt on the front pivot?

boost is by wastegate only with the module.

As subtle as a brick to the face ?