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If you drive to the circuit you don't actually need to remove the steering lock
Q.19.6. If fitted with a steering lock have it renderedinoperative (except for road going vehicles, driven to
events).
I have googled.
Sounds like it only happens under certain conditions, not all the time.
And hot water will still have more energy than cold water so will still melt more ice, even if it does ultimately end up re-freezing faster than cold water would have.
But in reality cold water normally...
I have Mark (Icemanuk)'s old bodies BTW so if you want me to measure anything let me know.
I am still mid various upgrade fitting so I don't have it running or any figures yet.
I have 450F 400R (ASTs with rear coilover) on my car and I would say it is too stiff to risk even on a tarmac rally unless you knew the surface was smooth.
I am planning to do some stage rallies and I think I'd probably look at reducing the spring rates by about a third for that. And I'd like...
So do I on my race car;) I just don't bother on the road car if I want to cut the time down a bit.
I'm not disputing that using the pulley tool is the best way.
Part of the procedure is fitting the tools before you remove the old belt. At that point it is obvious whether the timing is out or not before you start. So you can tell.
Chip-mk1 how much do belts really stretch in practice? If it was to any significant degree surely the timing would be out on...
lol. It is still a proper job. If you start with a car that has been timed incorrectly you have to do extra work to remedy that.
You're drifting off topic. The debate was about whether procedure 2 in the pdf (not undoing the cam pulleys) can get you the correct timing. I've always maintained...
But that is a separate matter - you would need to undo all the pulleys in that case.
My point has always been that there is no reason you cannot get the timing correct again without undoing the cam pulleys, as long as you started with it correct for the old belt.
It does work thought Fred. I've done it.
If the timing is correct when you start there is no reason why you cannot get it correct again just undoing the crank pulley.
If you think about it, not undoing the cam pulleys is just like if they were held in place by a woodruff key. That works for...
No you just undo the crank pulley as per procedure 2.
You haven't explained why VVT would make a difference between the two procedures. I might make a video myself lol.
With the horse shoe and crank pin. As above.
But if the timing is out after turning it over you adjust it and retension. This time the tension is spread throughout the belt and the timing and tension stay correct.
My pdf clearly shows the dephaser present for the procedure without undoing the cam pulleys.
Ph1 has less room in that area as well, the bonnet drops down closer to the engine. The ktec DTH kit comes with 60mm trumpets I think, but I think I've heard some people say the bodies are longer so don't need as long a trumpets as the generic Jenvey ones. I don't know if that is true or not...
Have a look in the BIOS to see if it has recognised the battery. Probably a dud battery, I had similar behaviour when I bought an after market battery that my laptop did not recognise as a dell one.
Re: Track Attack French Trophy or 750 Motor Club Clio 182 Series 2014 : What to choos
Something else to consider is the 750MC events are normally over 2 days I think while the FT/TARC is normally all done in a single day.
By the sounds of it there should be a decent number of cars running in...
I disagree Mick.
Renault say you can just undo one.
I've done it both ways many times and got the timing right without issue both ways.
I've also know a guy who used to work at the Renault dealership who said they only undo the crank pulley for a simple cambelt change.
You can't turn auto wipers off (by this I mean you can't make the position 1 of the stalk act like intermittent wipers).
The slider adjusts the sensitivity of the auto wipers, it is not always immediately obvious that it does anything.