Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Best place for genuine parts is Adam @ Renault Wolverhampton. Full stop.
He doesn't work for a main dealer, he works as a buyer/seller at something along the lines of the main UK Renault distribution centre for parts. For us this means a few great things:
* He is used to shipping stuff...
Unless there's a massive price difference then it's got to be Mike Woodford surely?
He's probably an hour away (Staines) as opposed to Fred (Birmingham) or Rentech (Portsmouth) both of which are more like 90 minutes in perfect traffic.
Brakes are relatively cheap - they benefit laptime, safety and maximise time on track too. Within reason G172/CS could help you pick a brake pad compound that'd be fine on the road too, so if it's a daily you loose nothing in terms of practicality.
Weight reduction - free acceleration...
As above more likely to be the olive joint but...
Cat-mani joint is a very common issue too. No point swapping a cat for a decat to get rid of a blowing joint if you don't refit using a new genuine Renault mani-cat joint (unless it's clearly very recently replaced anyway). About £18 IIRC. The...
I'd describe it more like |( ???? ;)
Conical side goes up against the hub (if you look really closely there's a small radius where the stub axle appears to "meet" (it actually goes through IIRC for obvious reasons) the hub. The conical face goes is there so the spacer doesn't foul the...
Yes it's 100% a "twin dry-break" fuel filler.
* Flows well over 2 litres per second if using an FIA fuel rig.
* No on/off switch, self opens & closes, fuel flows constantly from the moment it locates to the moment it's removed (no messing around with fuel caps or triggers etc. in a racing...
:o
You want the "auto trace" add in for Solidworks* 2014. You do need to treat it as "auto trace then manually check/correct every line" but it certainly wouldn't take 90 minutes :p
*Yes, I do realise the cost ;)
As others have confirmed flicking the ESP button disables ESP and TCS only. It does not disable ABS.
What you are describing (and is very plausible) is almost certainly ESP. Flick the switch (an orange ESP warning light will appear on the dash - don't worry) and have a compare.
For that...
SLA = Short Long Arm aka unequal length :) Provides even better camber compensation than equal length double wishbones and so is even less fussy to bump/droop/roll/ride height. Hence the principle in one guise or another can be found on an awful lot of cars from F1 to a 20 year old 3 series...
Just FYI for anyone who cares I think Morgan's got his words mixed up - whilst I definitely agree it's not worth worrying about on a Clio the above example of McPherson vs SLA Double Wishbone is the other way round (double wishbone suspension having massively better dynamic camber control than...
Yes, all Renaultsport 182 models have ESP, ABS and TCS.
There is an ESP & TCS off switch next to the cruise control switch. This will not disable the ABS however.
Do NOT attempt to disable the ABS by removing the fuse. That will end badly.
On top of spending 11k. But it's ok because it's £0 road tax :p But that's not the point - do with your money what you will. Nothing wrong with getting a new car because you want one.
Looks great, handle great, go more than adequately, low running costs yada yada. Zetec S keep getting better...
Marc, maybe I'm the only one but it's not very clear what you're aiming to achieve. Are you trying to reduce interior vibrations or are you asking if stiffer engine mounts will push you over the edge into insanity?
Have you seen (can't remember his name!) the ph1 is the Netherlands? Bought...
Sounds like the extremely common VVT Dephaser pulley. £455 including genuine parts and labour from DTM Cars (they're local, highly rated on here r.e. the quality of work and possibly the cheapest specialist in the country)...
Cheap springs & current dampers will be cheap until you have to replace the knackered dampers at MOT.
Put simply coilovers are the only option that is designed to not break at -60mm LOL. For comfort they will all be between "bad" (best) and "horrible."
Unfortunately Clios are horrendous...
1) Replace everything that's broken (e.g. common leaky rear dampers, common cracked front springs etc)
2) Make sure everything's pointing in the right direction (£30 for tracking with a printout)
3) Replace everything that's plain rubbish ("ditchfinder" tyres etc.)
4) Replace everything...
No.
The VCI unlock code gets emailed to you, once you go through the "unlock" process, then you return to the unlock screen (the rightmost button on the main menu/functions bar IIRC?) and type the code into a box manually. I realise you shouldn't need to do this if it's brand new and hasn't...
Absolutely cracking value for money that.
You might be waiting a while if you expect a car with recaros, wilwoods, reasonable mileage, new bits & FSH for £3k again, but there's plenty of very good VFM cars in the classifieds if you're prepared to hold out (ready to pounce!) for a month or so.
I don't understand why OP can't just put the key in the passenger door and turn it?
The key went in a washing machine, not chopped in half with an oxy torch.
Cup spoiler
FF interior
Wheels
RS2 (looks intact or at worst repairable)
Exhaust
And going by the above probably a few £ of other choice mods
Neal, buy it & break it! Only down 50 mins away!
Make sure you get the correct one (cup vs non cup)
The cup one is wider and 50% more expensive, but there's a few threads on here where people have been cheap & bought the non-cup one for a cup packed car and had problems. Same teeth count, just wider.
There's usually plenty of cars being broken in the "car parts for sale" section of the forum. Have you looked in here/contacted potential sellers?
I'm sure there'd be a f****** (due to airbag going off) steering wheel or two amongst a couple of threads.
Oh yeah I realise it's a lot of money & I'm certainly not saying that you have to do cams etc. It's just if it's on a long term wishlist it makes sense to do them now. It's exactly like your dephaser scenario!
Dephaser during original belt change would of cost an extra £170 ish.
Dephaser 1...
I'm not being funny but I think you already know the best person to ask...
It entirely depends what it's already had/not had. E.g. if it's roughly due a 12k/1 year service then it'll obviously need the usual oil, filter, air filter etc. Dephaser will include/necessitate an oil & filter...
The pre-cat lambda sensor is used to control the AFR only.
The post cat lambda is only used to check the catalyst is working properly. It has no direct impact on the AFR.
This is why when you fit a decat or remove the 2nd lambda sensor you'll probably find you've got the orange emissions...