Search results

It's in the fuel tank and not serviceable.

Steven, Glasgow, nearly finished 172 cup.

How do you fit a deep socket over the lead coming out the sensor? Ive never had too many problems getting them free. Soak with WD a good bit before, give it a few knocks with a hammer then get it there with a good fitting spanner.

Re: Bit a boulder, gears are stiff and emission light on. If they're damaged, the lambda sensor would need replaced and the gear linkage would need replaced at worst case. Not overly hard but any garage would do if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.

Re: Bit a boulder, gears are stiff and emission light on. Probably hit the gear linkage and the lambda sensor. Check both thoroughly for damage.

They are surely just playing it safe that everyone and anyone cannot design their own suspension parts that could potentially fail and injure the driver, passenger or anyone else. Sequential box's are not likely to cause injury to anyone. I dont think it's anything to do with keeping it fair...

Take it back to Russ and get him to sort it FOC. If this doesn't come out with a satifactory conclusion, then take it to scoff.

Love that engine bay mate. Massive credit to you!

All I'm saying is the first place you went to was a poor choice by the sounds of things. If it involves a bit of travelling then so be it. Personally, I'd go to one of the traders mentioned for the mechanicals and use Scoff for the mapping.

Ph1 has a cable throttle and the ph2 doesn't. The ph2 kit will come with the throttle cable and pedal.

Re: Road/Track 172 What trailer is that mate? Looks a perfect size for a Clio.

If I were you I'd get take it to the best place you can for the mechanicals and then the best place you can for the mapping. Cutting corners doesn't seem to be getting you anywhere so far.

Don't think EFI do mechanical work. Can you not just do it yourself?

IME you need to allow the hub to move out the way as there is not enough compression in the shaft to push back through without this movement. To detach the ball joint from the wishbone takes 1 min both sides. lol

It is a bulkhead mounted catch tank. One lug fits where the ecu bracket used to attach and the other is attached to a bracked that uses the water tank LH fixing point. Dont have a battery now, I use a manual crank start then runs off the alternator when started. Battery is in the...

2.25" u clamp and m10 x 30mm for the bolts.

Never had that issue. You could have changed the bottom ball joint on its own.

What started knocking? Did you tighten the bolts to the correct torque? Mines been off loads of times with no issues.

Still think the ball joint to wishbone bolts are easier and won't f*ck up geo if on coilovers with camber adjustment or eibach bolts.

Just detatch the 2 bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone. Then pull the shaft from the hub. Very straight forward.

Good luck with the mapping tomorrow. Hope all goes well!

Its a Vibratechnics one and for a tenner you've got yourself a a bargain. Virations aren't too bad as well, just makes the rear view mirror a bit hard to focus on things due to the vibration.

I use three bond sealer, great stuff.

Yeah, both pulleys have to come off first and also the lifting points.

Uses sealant for the rocker cover and gasket for the inlet. Ktec or Renault for the gaskets.

I use a DeWalt 18v impact gun and its done every stubborn bolt i've came up against. It was £250 a couple of years back.

Mine is a piggy back setup on a Adaptronic ecu. The OEM ecu only controls the dash and the like but the fueling, ignition and boost is controlled from the Adaptronic.

Get the engine up to temp, turn off ignition, place tray under sump large enough to hold 7 or 8 ltrs, remove sump plug, refit sump plug, remove oil filter, fill new oil filter with oil until it stops absorbing any more, fit new oil filter, fill with new fully synthetic 5w40 oil of choice...

Never nice to hear. Thoughts go out to your family and his friends. What a tragic loss of life! RIP Daniel