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I had issues with the exhaust manifold knocking, this was resolved by fitting the powerflex yellow upper insert, evol Motorsport dogbone with purple road bushes but 'track' metal inserts, and a new OEM gearbox right hand mount

I guess some people not in the know with Clio's would call the ph1 a MK2 and a Ph2 a MK3, at least this has been my experience with mates who are well into their jap stuff and have a complete ignorance for anything else:tearsofjoy:

When I bought the first refurb unit it cost me about a fiver under a grand... Just for the box alone. I thought it would be a one time worth while investment but no. That went pop 15k later. Then this second one cost me £130 second hand then £500-600 refurb for all new bearings fitted. It can...

Once again if it makes you feel better I did around 6k miles on mine whining like an old dog before it dropped gears:tearsofjoy:

First replacement was mail order refurb unit from well known company. Second was sourced second hand and rebuilt local

If it makes you feel better, I'm in 2 gearboxes with a massive loss of oil daily 😂

Is that Focus ST orange? The Clio pulls it off better than the ford...

You've just one upped the in-house company works phones, cheers :wink:

Had mine ran up too... Standard Map, Fatty Induction, Ktec 2.5 Inch Supersport catback, nothing else really that I can imagine affecting power output. For some reason they've put KM/H rather than engine revs on the X-Axis... Fairly new local firm so who knows if it can be trusted.... And I know...

Forge must have a drinking problem, 2 bottle openers, and 2 Lanyards with bottle openers built in, they must like to party!! 😂

Had a bit of a thought on this one... If I disconnected the rack from the column, is there any free play left to right on the column? Don't want to disconnect it and bolt the rack to the subframe if I'm then stuck with the steering column having the same issue!

Hi All, I'm in the middle of replacing my subframe as I managed to bend the original one going over a curb in the snow. I've used the opportunity to upgrade all the front bushings to powerflex black and fit a new starter motor, fit s 182 manifold and link pipe. Now I've got the old subframe...

I have the same problem but my orange immobilizer light always goes out as if everything is fine, audible 'click' heard from under the dash when turning the key but no cranking, is this similar to yours mate? I've not found a solution as of yet other than wait it out or bump start...

Would definitely recommend holding a 300mm in your hands first if possible, some people find them way too small but I like the almost go kart feel it gives. 330mm is more common

Whatever you do make sure the wheel is genuine, seen enough mates with replica nardi's and sparco's fold them in half when it comes to accidents... Same with the snap off if you're going that route, the cheaper 'ebay' specials' wear out stupidly quick inducing a scary amount of play, wouldn't...

Really bad photo from before the cruise control switches were added, the addition of the snap-off boss does bring the wheel quite a bit closer to you but its optional obviously!

Personally i've got a 300mm OMP wheel in Poly, with the Momo boss as suggested (has the little tab for the steering wheel angle sensor). I've also got a DND Snap-off boss and i've managed to make this work with the Cruise Control adapters people sell on here time to time. My mates reckon i've...

Very doubtful there'd be any internal work, If there was I'm sure at least one of the previous owners would make a point of it! Remaps are usually done after just induction and exhaust as gains can be had in driveability (smoother power delivery, smoother running etc)

I believe the thread is M18x1.5, so something like this would do it; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mild-Steel-Lambda-Sensor-Blanking-Plug-M18-x-1-5/282876068686?epid=806528015&hash=item41dcba434e:g:EGQAAOSwol5Y3kTR Obviously that ones only Mild Steel but your key words to search would be 'M18x1.5...

New MOT Rules coming in soon also state that all warning lights have to illuminate and then clear when turning on vehicle ignition so i had heard, no more removing bulbs or black tape :O

Where's this Renault dealer you guys are using round your way? We've got Holden in Norwich but hearing mixed reviews on their knowledge of the sports. Got a few niggly bits i wouldn't mind chucking in to get sorted as they beat me 😂

If only i'd of known mate, I've got the old spacers from the last set of disks i fitted on the rear sat in my door card at all times! Could of popped them down to you easily. Glad it all got sorted in the end though, looks good!

I'm guessing that he wants to use the camber bolts in the bottom strut holes, in conjunction with the slotted top holes, to gain more camber than just the slotted top holes alone?

Isnt this about the going price for one from the original run anyways?

I Had a similar problem with e rebuilt box where it was stuck in two gears. I Was told this was due to the reverse idler dropping during shipping when i received it so i'm doubtful this is your issue but maybe something to consider

I'm game for this if i'm alive after a Saturday night out... Live near Cromer too so an ideal end point for me!

Cheers Mick, I'll give these things an eyeball once the weather stops playing up!

Oil Changes have got a lot easier recently I have to say

Tell me about it! The boot currently looks like I've robbed up halfords with the amout of oil bottles in there:tearsofjoy:

I'd say that would roughly be about 4-500 miles in that time