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Think I'll start with 1° shims for the camber and then see what the tracking results show. If I still have 0.27 toe in each side I'll put the 20 shims in to move me to 7 each side.
Once it's all back on and I've got fresh rear suspension I'll need to get rear alignment checked to get some shims. What the deal with rear camber money on 1.5° now do I need .5 or maybe 1° more?
I've taken the back axle off this afternoon, what a s**t job! Took me longer to get the 6 caged bolts that hold it all the the chassis than to fully strip it down and cut off the spring hangers! Its off now though so happy day. Blasting it tomorrow ready for welding gussets
This was my last alignment last August I seem to have lost caster since doing the PMS arm plates and black series polybushing?
What castor should cup arms run?
It could have been like it from new, they will be welded together in a jig and if the guy making it isnt on the ball he may not line it up perfectly pre welding. Then theres the welding itself which can pull things out of shape with the heat.
I'm removing my axle today for refurb I'll get some...
Yea I agree, its maybe had a knock on the left but no much. Check the bushes out if they are perished and cracked then they want changing any way. Wants more camber on the right and more toe out on the left
If I'm right in thinking that a 182 and normal 172 have 2 water pumps in a larger screen wash bottle like this. One for the headlight washers and one that does the front and rear screens.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184094764366
And then a 172/182 cup has a smaller bottle with just one motor...
What I mean by dual/double it the motor has 2 outlets, one feeds the rear wiper and one the front.
I wonder if I could T peice the 2 pipes straight out of the pump into 1 that way if the motor stops working when you press the front wash button you can go to a secondary/backup by using the rear wash?
You can choose any repairer you want and because you are the 3rd party and innocent party Admiral isnt your own insurer they cant do s**t about it.
They want you to use their approved repairer because they will have an SLA Service Level Agreement/contract with that Bodyshop 'Autofix' where they...
So I think my pump is goosed and I'm removing the rear wiper and water pipe.
Probably a load of wires I dont need aswell.
Is there a single motor rather than double on say a 172 cup or something and will it fit straight onto my existing plug?
@Simon_16v your not far away only in selby. I'm out Malton way.
That van was a Bodyshop owners van he bought cheap with the full side bent. He bought a full shell minus the front as a donor then I removed the full roof and side as a job lot and fitted all in one peice making sure joints were...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254132588857
Cheap but it will work. Centre punch the spot welds and the us your battery/air drill at a slow to medium speed to drill the spotweld. If you drill too fast you burn them out. Only drill as deep as the bracket not all the way through the floor pan. If...
Yea 99% of cars are spot welded together with a little bit of mig, brazing, panel bonding and rivets along the way.
That panel is 100% spotwelded, if you have a grinder that will work too it's just a rough way to do it that's all. The idea is to minimise damage to the panels you are keeping.
Evening clio perverts!
So my washer motor is dead I think, it's a double action one for front and rear wash. Can I swap it out for a single wash motor? No wiring issues anywhere?
Next question is where can I get the tool to remove the large plastic ring holding the pump into the fuel tank?
So you are saying with a 50/50 balance you can adjust handling by soften/harden or raise/lower suspension to shift weight where its needed, rather than rely solely on spring rate