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Great pics, Ive just ordered a pioneer amp like yours for my Alfa, cant wait!

Wow, £500! I got it for £750 and have made £1k+ profit plus a few bits and spares for mine. Its injector rail has just saved mine from a misfire today as well!

Apprieciate I am probably public/cs enemy now, but it really was a shed. Its parts have made many other clios live on though!

True, what about cutting the area out as a rectangle and literally flipping it and rewelding?

I would just move it a few inches toward the centre, or replace with a mil-spec circular bayonet connector?

Im using 12AWG from an amp wiring kit with yellow solder-sleeve terminals.

Its the internal stuff im more concerned about because I cant blast it off with a pressure washer afterward!

Hi all, As title, metal particles from cage grinding and welding, have turned to rust spots over the last few months, stuck to the paint. Whats the best way to remove?

Yeah, drive it when its dry and not salty. It isnt like you are commuting and putting mega miles on it. Cars are built to be driven and enjoyed.

Nope, bumper was cracked and only held on by the 'crappy JDM quickrelease cable tie crap' wings were damaged at the bottoms and cracked due poor jacking. Its a shame but it was a complete nail imo. It had some nice parts but it was way past saving. No regrets at all from me'

Scratched my driveway in protest!

Yeah, full of tat and the bodywork was shocking, headlights aside.

Love it, needs slamming

Looks good there, I think a lot of the bodges are recent, I know a few of the previous owners! But yeah in my opinion it was beyond saving.

Haha, it did cross my mind on the drive back that I should restore it, but the rot was terminal, skirts were hiding bad cancer. Some of the bodges didnt work, lol, nothing documented on any of its old progress threads!

Well, bought the CS famous 'HOU' and broke it for parts. For a 'much loved' car I was shocked at the amount of bodges, mainly wiring (didnt see a single crimped/soldered join, all twisted and taped), wire holding the exhaust on, various mismatched bolts/nuts, many missing or rounded, also very...

Yep up for pub and nudes. @dan2707 @Coops Turbo

Bumping this... apologies! I am breaking a ph1 with speedo sensor drive. I am going to take the speedo sensor and the relevent loom out. I am looking at binning the abs on my ph2 172 track car. I have noticed that one of the pins on the ecu connector is speedo signal. Im assuming I could wire...

Wow. I generally prefer Imprezas but this is absolutely perfect!

Wow, how have I missed this so far? Work is a credit to you mate, top marks for persistance! Hope it comes out of the dipping ok. @Coops Turbo I see what you mean about mk1 rust now!

I could do, used a crowbar and didnt take much effort.

Yeah. In talks getting it done with the rest of the cage. Fuel filler cap is starting but hoping i can treat that.

I cant weld, im willing to learn but I think its quite a challenging repair. Il probably leave it for a few years and see how its fared.

What sort of time frame are we talking for this to be a major repair? Its only used on track and driving to and from, would it last another year or so?

Pics below. These have been plated but the sill will need doing, about half on each side along with the rear arch/sill/inner quarter junction.

Hi all, 03 plate 172 ph2, gone fairly heavily down the track car route and have just had a cage fitted (welded in bases etc.) and plenty of modifications. It was always meant to be a cheap-ish project. The shell is far from mint, which doesnt bother me, but recently I have found some bad rust...

Id be looking around the 120 mark I reckon.

Mine will be for sale soon, modified scenic lever (bent 45 degrees to mimic the original shifter) with phase 1 ball gearknob and yanoo insert, new lower bushes.

@RSCaulay take the gaitor off, look at the ball/pivot, if its rubber its standard.