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If it was just one injector I wouldn't worry too much about the C2i not being coded but it shouldn't cause rough running. Sounds like injector 3 is the issue.

I think the Cup has a Seat position sensor which will throw the SRS light on if you don't leave it in place. Apart from that it's all gravy

Honestly, just buy a 1.6 as its genuinely not worth converting the 1.2 and your insurance will still go up.

7daNm = 70Nm .7daNm = 7Nm

Glady... wake up, go for a run, buffet breakfast, gamble/drink, go shooting, gamble and drink more... I could live that life

Surprised you didn't offer him £400 for it though lol... slipping in yer old age ;)

Measure it at the alternator and if it's stable at 14.1-14.3v then this is fine but if it's around the 14.7 and above then this is getting toward an over voltage and possibly an issue.

In that case yes, it is in tank and part of the fuel pump assembly.

Check the earth conditions at the battery to chassis and loom to gearbox areas... sounds like something isn't great. What voltage level was you seeing at idle and fast idle at the alternator?

If its only at first cold start it's more than likely a fuel pressure regulator issue. Pretty common now they're getting older.

That sounds like someone has removed the throttle plate and refitted it incorrectly TBH. They look circular but when measured with a micrometer they're not. I had this on a Meg RS recently just before I went away showing a generic throttle track fault. It turned out the owner had *attempted* to...

Welcome to CS - Give us a shout if you need any help as we're close by Mick

It's if it has the capability to run VVC via PWM or not (I believe some have done it via the shift light functions).

It's a properly well designed piece of kit and I would deffo buy another.

Yep I had both silenced and unsilenced but I actually prefered the silenced (As installed on the car in this video courtesy of ThomasBrentnall) Mick

1/4" is the perfect diameter (Around 8mm OD I believe) and it has a flat end which is what you need to force the lower spring clip off the back of the bag unit. The remaining clip makes you feel like you are going to break something.

Never heard of the ECU tbh, what's its specification?

Are you sure your earths are good though as putting to the bodywork isn't always ideal... did you actually test the earth and get a resistence value as close to 0 Ohms as possible? If you're confident the horn end is fine you need to move back in to the car toward the "switch" part of the...

Yes but it's not as simple as that as it's the ABS modules software that is the controlling factor here and depending on what version you have will dictate the routes available to you. Personally I'd start with a Diag session and see what is actually occurring before reinventing the wheel all...

Not 100% true, it could also be a properly corroded connector so probe the wire itself and repeat the test. Did you also confirm that one of the two wires went to ground and the second went to the fused line?

ABS is self clearing at every key turn. Sometimes the system needs to "see" rotation before it'll clear and this scenario is what myself and Alex was talking about. You've changed the sensors which are resistence based and have a known value. This value is most likely wrong and is causing you...

It looks like someone has done a number on the rear of your wheel where the 1/4" bar inserts. Mk3 wheel airbags are horrible things to get off though so you have my sympathies.

A decent 182 lump is going to set you back around £450-650 less fitting, fluids and belts so, and i'm just playing Devils advocate here, it may be worth looking in to having the head pulled/rebuilt and new belts done as it's probably going to cost less (or around the same at least) as replacing...

At the minute we're next to the timber yard on Fields Farm Rd but next week we're moving. Give me a call tomorrow on the landline number (listed on our website) and i'll arrange to get it in for a look with you. Mick

Saying "but it worked fine before" isn't very scientific is it? Most items with a finite lifespan on your car will work perfectly before they break to ;) You need to fault find the entire circuit in full so start at one end and work backwards... I always start with the fuse then at the Horn...

Back in tomorrow ;-)

Pop it in if you like I'm only up the road in Long Eaton but I suspect it needs an injector (I'd actually pull all four and have them tested for piece of mind & refurbished if required). Mick

Checked the horn itself actually works?

Injectors on a K9K are easy to remove if you take your time and don't use a slide hammer on the Delphi injectors. Any white smoke at cold startup?

Honestly, if you're after an increase in rear track width then it would be easier to stick with your existing stub axles and add a spacer. The looms will swap but if you're going to install ESP wheel speed sensors to a non-ESP ABS module then that in itself will cause a problems as the modules...