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Are you sure they're rounded? Either my glasses or s**t or your autofocus is.
If they are rounded then yes, head off. If it's you using the wrong socket, plonka.
Subframe captive nuts (18mm) or the supplementary brackets that tie the Subframe to the floor (13mm)?
I'm guessing you mean the supplementary brackets in which case you are gonna have to either drill them out or forget to put them back on.
okay, the timing tool set they've sold you as genuine Renault tooling is 100% NOT genuine Renault tooling. Renault tools all have an "MOT-XXXX" prefix stamped in to them and are always of a hardened steel construction rather than the mild steel rubbish in the links above. Tool numbers have been...
Officially the crash context data cannot be cleared but you can have someone (eBay is a good source for this service) who can rewrite the code so it doesn't contain the context data. I believe this costs around £25 but I've seen some come back with completely incorrect configurations (i'm...
The light is on because there is a fault somewhere on the system.
I would take the car somewhere that has CLIP access and have then run a network test firstly and go from there as you're not going to fix this without some proper equipment I'm afraid.
We're in Nottingham if that helps?
Mick
The clockset needs a CAN signal from the SRS module in order to turn the light off.
If the module has been removed you will never get it to turn off with modifying the clockset PCB layout and removing the SMD LED
No, lol, the clocks on a diesel don't range as high on the tacho as a Diesel doesn't rev to just shy of 8k.
A Petrol will range from 0 - 8k where as a diesel only ranges from 0 - 6k. The clockset has a motor which controls the movement of the tacho needle which works off a resistance based...
Yes it can be done but:
Rev counter range will be wrong
If you have digital type clocks you will need the UCH configuration updating for analogue type display.
In the case of the 172 Cup (which doesn't have ABS) it's as simple as the bulb not being there (put a non-Cup clockset in its place and the ABS light is always on).
You got a copy of the rules and regs to hand? I'd read into it as most people that play with the standard loom do more harm than good as they simply do not understand CAN BUS
If you're doing all this to a genuine competition vehicle then you'd be absolutely stupid to not use aftermarket management and drop all standard looms in favour of proper competition wiring with just the basic circuits for power, lights and cut-offs
That was going to be my next port of call. It's deffo not a case of turning it on as an option but i'm sure a software reflash would add it.
I'd need a donor car to experiment with though to be able to say for sure.