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how is the homeless looking pikey builder anyway? I bet his straight jacket and padded room is getting a work out at the moment!!!

my abs light is wired to my oil pressure light ;)

Just to be clear to avoid confusion, i dug the broken waterpump out of Andy's box of bits the other day, its had a new pump already (ie ages ago) point being was it had been running previously (before we touched it) with that broken pump

you can buy them from jenvey

nope that's the oil level sensor - ie naff all to do with the engine starting its on the same loom as the crank sensor though - there's your problem

even that sounds wrong, call me Engine Dynamics buy them from the same place i do ;)

no chance will that fit

sounds like the engine has worn rings/valve stem seals to me

someone who recommends putting POWER STEERING / AUTO TRANSMISSION OIL into a JC5 box clearly isn't a specialist, slap him in the face, 75W80 or 75W90 - both fine - the later giving better hot protection

great lads who love a bit of farming/inbreeding, never heard a bad word about them

Over twice the "going rate" of a normal ARDS test i'm afraid, plus no £2K deposit! Renault should open the series up to older Clio's you get a lot more takers then, but the 197's would get slaughtered LOL! oh and wrong section ;)

buy a gasket?

ask ian speedy

did you say XS power? Are you mad?

Load of rubbish, Sodemo's lumps based on the F4R700 series (172/182) don't use a block brace and neither do ANY of the guys in Spain, Italy or France! Simply not needed as its not an issue As for using AT bodies, i wouldn't, stick to Jenvey's proper kit - way better IMO

you can sip the angle tightening if you want (not recommended) 30nm + 86deg = 130nm in english for exhaust cam 40nm + 110deg = 140nm in english for crank bolt do at your own risk - not my fault if it goes wrong!!

they're not supposed to have copper grease, if your mate has used it, slap him, slap him HARD we see problems with the brakes all the time, a lot of places these days class a service as an oil and filter/s change, the brakes must be stripped once a year IMO

you put love into an engine? pics or it didn't happen ;)

i very much doubt the belts stretch as much as you make out, i've used them to lift engines etc, they're bloody strong!! tolerance is a different matter, the new modified kits don't seem to need tensioning up as much as the old ones (another reason why the pulley tool is needed ;))

no idea how they do them at factory, but i now the guy who does/did look after all the R-sport race engines for the clio cup and formula renaults, he uses the pulley tool ;)

Well i've gone and bought a 182 this morning so i'll prove my point in the next few weeks! This is the problem we (all the specialists) have Mark, 1 mechanic does a belt change on an F4R once and thinks its right, it isn't (not having a dig BTW) if the procedure you're on about is correct why...

Won't work!

but then you should've just done it the way i describe in the first place? As you now have to get the pulley tool out, and slacken off the inlet/exhaust and crank!

i've been through this about a million times but here goes! lets start with an engine that is timed up perfectly from factory, when i say perfectly you can only use maximum of 3 finger from 1 hand to fit the horseshoe - anymore than that the the timing IS NOT right now you replace the cambelt...

what i said???

cracking!

i made my own as the official one kept breaking

you'd have to park it on the surface of the sun to transfer enough heat to the rack bushes, they're about 0.5m away LOL

the pdf is wrong, if you read the french version is states that engines WITH VVT must have the pullies undone to replace the belt, and non vvt engines you don't need to touch the pullies on the uk pdf it shows a picture of a not vvt engine but with a vvt description (or vice versa, i forget)...

I'll send them via e-mail as i don't want them becoming public drop me an e-mail Fred@btmperformance.com