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NOT ACL!!! They're crap (in my opinion) we spent 6 b*****d hours at Arrow Precision measuring the clearances on their VERY expensive CMM machine, stock (tagged) bearings gave bang on oil clearance, ACL were DOUBLE = bad idea, you buzz the engine even slightly and the rod is going straight out...
tip - use the crank pulley, WD40 the seals, turn it round and use the back of it to push them in flush, the lip is bigger than the hole so you can't push them any further than flush - REMEMBER TO CLEAN IT BEFORE REFITTING TO THE CRANK!
well "mystery user" you are a bell!
the seal kit is about £30 (which is why a lot of places skip it and charge you the extra £30 in their pocket!)
to fit it though would be 5hours roughly, £200 is a bargain, BUT (and i sound like a broken record here) THEY MUST HAVE ALL 3 CAM LOCKING TOOLS
just make sure you have the right gasket from Renault, there are 2 listed (1 is for late 172/182 the other for early 172 with oval ports)
no need to disconnect the cat, just undo the 9 x 10mm nuts and you'll be able to move it enough
pretty much what he said
a "forged engine" can be done with cheap bits from China, won't be as good as a proper forged engine
*insert manufacture* rods are about £100 each
Arrows are £250 each
put them side by side and feel the weight of them/see the quality differences you'd go for the...
Exactly, sharky has been looked after! It's had a bit more than just an engine build, the only original part is the crank, but Martin wouldn't know that!
Generally if it's not there it can't be tested
my MOT guy was saying about HID kits the other day, completely legal! Headlight washers can't be tested if not present therefore pass!
the only dodgy one is airbag light and abs light, mine are wired to my oil pressure light so then come on when...
Set it so the Allen key bit is inline with the exhaust stud then rotate the belt over backwards (belt on loose pulleys) don't spin the engine backwards! Then see where it lines up
if it's still off I know a supplier who does an oversized steel upper idler to take out the slack
were then went bust, operating under another name now i believe, just a rush job, about £200 in parts and a bit of care and it would've been fine instead the owner gets lumped with a big bill :(
rebuilt it after the first company royally fucked it up, TWICE
no thermostat to head side gasket - silicone
no oil pump cover gasket - silicone
84mm pistons, but had a stock headgasket (thats less than 84mm BTW)
no locating dowels in gearbox so the box moved when you lifted the clutch
crank...
fuel rail guard at front of engine is loose but hard to be 100% from that video, big rectangular thing at the front of the engine, does it move if you try and wiggle it?