Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Ah I may have misread your initial post sorry... If it does it when cold and when fully up to temperature then I would say probably not. If it was just from cold, then I'd say yes as the CTS gives the ECU information for spark advance, fueling etc in conjunction with the lambda for cold start...
Could easily be coolant temp sensor... does it do it both cold and hot or just cold or just hot?
It's what sends the ECU information to control idle/vacuum advance/injector feeling info etc.
Thanks bud :smile:
Part numbers are all on the Renault Parts Direct website, on each item it has a SKU reference number - that's the genuine Renault part number and can be used in any main dealer or specialist. :smile:
One thing I will add, the coolant temp sensor wasn't genuine (Haas from...
Yeah definitely... That seal won't have been doing much the amount it was warped and split!
Going to change the lambda next, then pretty much ever sensor has been replaced with a new one so they shouldn't fail for a long time to come.
Also need to find a cat as well.
Replaced the thermostat... think it was overdue! The seal was knackered on both sides with splits and holes, and to make it worse the bleed screw for the coolant had been cross threaded so had to re-tap the thread on the housing and fit a new bolt. All tested and seems to be working nicely with...
I'd recommend 3M compounds and matching coloured pads, great products that although aren't the cheapest they genuinely work! (Been detailing cars professionally for over 10 years). Green & blue I would start with.
Well I'm working on the theory that all the parts I've replaced can cause issues so now they're all new there's less chance of something failing and causing a bigger issue or leaving me stranded somewhere. 90% of the bits were genuine the only non genuine items where the inlet temp sensor and...
Have also just replaced a load of other sensors on the clio... And my poor idle has gone! :) It's now smooth as any other car I've owned, so the comments from people saying they all idle like that aren't strictly true.
Replaced the MAP sensor as the one on the car broke when I pulled it off to...
If it drives fine, and MPG isn't effected don't worry. The orange light will probably go out soon... a few cycles of starting/stopping the engine and it'll clear itself. Post cat lambda sensor can throw up the light, as can wet conditions, all common on these cars.
LeeP86 - It's a great combo IMO, anthracite and silver works so well. Yours looked like it was great fun on track :)
I work for Renault... so can get a decent discount so genuine parts worked out cheaper than pattern parts from Euro / GSF etc. No brainer for me! :)
Decided to replace some parts on the Clio as it's never idled and run as it should to me, and after un-earthing more bodged jobs by previous owner(s), which involved a whole evening messing about with the connections on the relay board/engine bay fuse board due to broken wires/ a loose main...
As above really, it probably isn't actually centralised. Even a small amount of it being off-centre will bring the light on. Or it could possibly be faulty, did you turn it much when aligning it the first time? Also check all the wiring is free going to the squib itself.
We have regular monthly meets down in Devon & Cornwall, average around 15-20 cars per meet... Perhaps we could combine the two and have a meet at Exeter or something so it's halfway for everyone once the weathers nicer?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1757931594494609/
I would try to get all 4 matching if you can, if nothing else it rules them out of the problem if it persists, and at least gives you better tyres for when you do find what's wrong. On my last car I had issues similar to the ones your experiencing and it was the rear toe that had a problem...