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I thought the cup one was the odd one out and all the rest were the same as the cup spoiler uses a different light unit?

4 t20 torx screws and 3 plastic rivet type clips and spoiler comes off, if you're changing from a standard spoiler to cup one you'll need to change the wiring connector as they're different too

Here you go http://www.cliosport.net/threads/cambelt-auxbelt-dephaser-pulley-guide.437872/#post-5654581

There is somewhere, I'll see if I can find it

Quite possibly yes, there's less strain when stationary

Numbered in reverse, cylinder 1 is gearbox end, working back across with 4 being open end. If you're looking at the coilpack when stood in front of the car then it should be as follows Cylinder 1. . . . Bottom right Cylinder 2. . . . Bottom left Cylinder 3. . . . Top left Cylinder 4. . . ...

It looks as though someone has poorly attempted to get around the common problem of the airbag light coming on when the seats get moved around by using resistors to fake a signal back to the ecu. Personally my preference would be to strip back the insulation and solder the wires back together...

Is that the cup racer setup?

They should work fine mate, just make sure the seats you buy are compatible with base mounted runners, as I said before you can make them work with side mounts but base ones are easier

Sorry mate should have added the fact that the stick self centres in neutral (well mine certainly does anyway) when looking at the stick it's not overly obvious which gear you're in but once driving it just feels right and I didn't miss a gear all day

As promised @Brushwood69 a full report for you, to put it simply I can't recommend one enough. I was a little dubious to begin with when loading the car up but once on track the difference is massive, the gearstick is much easier to reach and in a more natural position for me, gear changes...

Gaz golds finally arrived 2 days before going back to Combe, just managed to squeeze in the time to fit them Only remembered to photo the rears Have to say these made a massive difference round the track, despite not being set up properly, only had the chance to line everything up by...

You will need a mounting system of some kind yes, whether it's side or base mounts (this depends on the seats you buy as different manufacturers use either of the above, some use both) To cut a long story short you'll need a subframe, either side or base mounts (this depends on your seat and...

Great piece of kit are these, used mine for the first time on friday, what a difference it makes, gears feel much more precise

Simpson Motorsport in Lydney, 20 minutes over the bridge. They specialise in BMW's but there's normally a clio or 2 knocking about there

Sounds like the friction material on the brake shoes has broken off and is loose inside the drum, causing the brakes to lock on. You'll need to remove the drum and inspect inside to be certain though

This is passenger side, can just make out drivers one on left of the photo

4 bolts hold the rack to the subframe, unbolt, lift rack out of its housing, remove old bushes and fit new ones (they're split so the come off and go on really easy, with a hole to align on a lug) fit rack back onto subframe and bolt back up. Worst part of the job is access, it's fairly...

You'll want a pair of these then https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/renault/renault-clio-mk2/suspension/renault-clio-mk2-powerflex-steering-rack-bushes-smi.html

A lot depends on what you want to use the car for, for instance in your case @berilia standard bushes with more compliance would result in a more comfortable ride as they are designed to flex with bumps in the road where as for those people whose cars live on a track then the majority would say...

It is a horrible job removing that sound deadening but it does tidy the car up nicely, especially if you end up painting the inside too

Non you replace the original mount completely, i believe you need a modified spacer from PMS though when fitting to bilstiens

Everything's been refitted now and finally the cars back on all 4 wheels. Noticed when going to work the other day that the radiator core had started to sag at art bottom so i've changed that also. Also added a few more touches of red to the front bumper, may not be to everybody's taste but I...

Fitted it today @Brushwood69, I can see its going to take some getting used to, gear changes feel precise but there isn't much room for error. I'll update after Friday when I've had a chance to drive in anger

I'd go for the speedo sensor then mate, I've had it and it's happened to somebody else on here recently too. Non gen are about £15 on ebay and gen renault some where around £40 from memory

Speedo drive on the gearbox mate, assuming it's not a late 172 or a 182

I'll start of by apologising for bringing this up :) I am a complete technophobe when it comes to things like this so go easy on me please guys I've got a genuine sj4000 that I use in the car on track, and I've read up about the likes of Harry's lap timer, racechrono and the rest but I have...

Passenger switch diagram just for reference if you need it, exactly the same process as above just different coloured wires mate

That's it mate, just unplug the drivers side window switches from the wiring connector and temporarily bridge the yellow and white wires as explained above. If it's the drivers side switch at fault you'll be able to operate the window with the passenger switch, if it still doesn't work then you...

Can't edit my above post but here's a diagram to explain 113 is the passenger window switch on the drivers side. You'll need to connect up both yellows to whites so you have two pairs with one of each colour I'm each pair (yellow-white yellow-white) doesn't matter if they're paired the wrong...