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They all run off the same fuse yeah. Problems tend to arise because the window regulator takes it power source through both switches, and it both switches to be in working order to supply power to the motor, once one switch breaks you loose the circuit and are left with no power. If you have...

If you only use it on the road @hipwell I'd buy a pair of new wishbones and leave it at that to be honest, if you track it then I'd use poly bushes. I've just poly bushed a pair of brand new wishbones and there are easier jobs you can do, let alone trying to press out old rusted bushings.

Same here, have coilovers on order though

I'd do it for you but I'm just as lazy lol, and still at work as well :)

Couldn't you stop the wipers when they're at the top of their movement and measure the distance between the hook of the arm and the bottom of your sunstrip? Should work out as roughly half the length you'd need, i.e if it's 7" then you'll need a 14" blade

Funnily enough I replaced mine for the same reason. I used a bench press for the casings but you'll need a second pair of hands if you do it that way. Apart from the hassle of changing the bushes you'll probably need to at least partially drop the fuel tank @RichValver as the bolt through...

Rear beam bushes made a massive difference on mine too. In the process of changing the rest at the moment ready for Castle Combe next week, can report back after that if you like?

It should adjust in both directions to the position you select, when increasing the assistance there is normally a short delay of a few seconds (mine does this anyway so I presume it's normally what happens)

I love seeing new parts going on, not so sure my wife does though?? I'm lucky that she's also into cars so I don't have to suffer with moaning wife syndrome :)

Fingers crossed, good to hear that the DVSA listened to a common sense approach

Had a last minute change of plans this afternoon so cracked on with stripping and rebuilding everything on the subframe. As previously mentioned all new black series polybushes along with new inner and outer steering rack ends, new genuine Renault wishbones and a whole host of new nuts, bolts...

Just had mine arrive this morning, looked to have the same issue with the bottom of the lever. The bolt won't push through but managed to get mine together by turning the bolt by hand, went straight through then Ads

The deliveries keep on coming, decided to bite the bullet and see just what a difference one of these makes Suppose I'd better get on with fitting everything back on the car really

Whilst I agree with your reasoning I wonder whether regardless of its effect on the brakes the load valve has to be seen to 'operate'?

As the 3rd March is fast approaching I thought I'd better crack on with things, decided that despite knowing I'd have to fight the captive nuts it'd be easiest to drop the whole subframe out as one and then rebuild everything in the garage. As I expected all 4 nuts just span so no choice but to...

Twas the first one Google brought up as I was sat waiting for lunch

I'm undecided on them to be honest. Years ago a neighbour had them on a 19 cab and they looked nice but I'm not so sure on a clio, although they are growing on me.

Not mine but I assume you mean these?

I've kept my abs for now, only really noticed it trying to kick in on a very wet day at Combe, I do have plans to remove it completely and run a bias valve but I've got other priorities first

If you're going into a race series you'll need to check the regs, blue book states 75mm ground clearance as a general rule (excluding exhaust I think) but whilst unlikely individual series may have other regs that'll need to be satisfied

Airbag module will be fine to come out, although the warningblamp and the serv lamp will be on permanently. I assume the others you've mentioned will be to do with abs/esp. I don't have these so I can't say whether or no they can be removed unfortunately

PAS pump/aux belt under strain when on full lock

Speak to @George@RTR_Parts or his website is https://www.roadtrackraceparts.com

I've run the earth from the ecu to one of the dash support bolts and the smaller wire is run up to the drivers side earthing point on the dash support (one of the three bolts that doubles up to hold the top of the lower dash in place) not saying they're the best places but they've worked for me...

I don't think it will fully turn off as there will always be some power there, there will be a slight delay between altering the setting if the adjuster (at least there is on mine anyway) but it might be worth going from minimum to maximum and see what differences there are. Without being able...

Everything wired up correctly? Only I know when I did mine the instructions didn't make complete sense and I think one of the wires was a different colour How does it behave when driving too? Do you notice a difference in resistance if you move the adjuster when driving?

Mine will sometimes be tight the first time I move the wheel after starting the car up but within 1/4 of a turn it's working properly. I assume you've had a play around with the adjuster and still no joy?

You're using the eBay variable controller I assume?

If you're not in too much of a rush I will shortly have a set of shocks and the previously mentioned Amax springs going up for sale, they've only covered 2 track days and the car isn't road legal so there's very little wear. For budget springs they're good, I much preferred them to my previous...

Ahh yeah forgot about the yanoo, they do indeed shorten the throw, but I think you've got to be a little careful with regard to rushing the synchro's between gears? I've never used one so I can't comment for certain, just what I've read. Someone like @NorthloopCup would probably be best to ask Ads