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I'm sure I dont need to tell you that if you stiffen up one of the mounting points it will take proprtionally more load/strain. As standard the front lower gearbox mount is very soft and hence does close to feck all to help oppose torsional loads. As i mentioned, with the dogbone removed on my...

Where are you thinking of fitting the 5th mount? With the new mounts on my car, I've tried it just on 3, both upper ones and the front lower one and it hardly moves atall, tested with a 6ft long bar hooked onto the front of the engine! Was worried I was going to pull the car off the axle stands...

Who made the shafts if you dont mind me asking?

Your right, it is getting too late for this lol Just realised one of things I said earlier isn't quite right, knew what I meant but just didn't write it properly. The crank sensor only tells half the story though, you need two turns of the crank to fire all the cylinders, knowing where the...

In order to fire the injector at the correct time you need to know where the engine is in its cycle though, with only a crank sensor it could be just about to start a power stroke or an induction stroke.

Swapping cam covers would be a bit too much work, getting the face skimmed and the journals line bored would probably cost more than a head. The crank sensor only allows the engine to batch fire both spark and fuel, the standard ecu uses fancy logic/ programming to establish 720 sync without a...

Ahhah, that explains it then. I built mine up a few weeks ago, used some parts of the kit but kept the renault ball inserts, seemed like a better fit than the oversize red ones that came with it. Put it all together with some silicone grease, its got a bit of play in it but not in a sloppy way...

I was lead to believe they were going to download it after every flight but it would appear its just been daily, could be wrong, it'll all come out in the investigation. I remember iceman getting cams sent out with the phase ring on them and indeed that was the case that the cams are the same...

Looking good, bearings look perfect! Does the Yanoo kit you've got bolt together? I go one from him ages ago, mine was just two ally bits that pushed together with an o-ring then the whole lot held in with the c-clip. Got any pics of it before you fitted it?

It would appear the shaft that's failed on this one was from a different batch from the one that caused the Bond flight to ditch back in May, iirc there were 10 parts in that batch and all subsequently removed from service so it looks like a more widespread issue than first thought. Apparently...

I was supposed to be at work by now but with all the EC225's still grounded the backlog of fights is getting bigger by the day. Was due out on Wednesday, which was put back until this morning, I was half way to Aberdeen when they phoned and told me to turn round, earliest I'm going is now...

Made some more progress on the o/s inner wing today, also discovered how different this side of the car is to the n/s. Some of you may already know this but it was news to me that the chassis leg on the o/s is about 12-15mm further outboard when measured at the strut tower/crank pulley area than...

Nothing exciting on the engine front for now, thottle bodies, rod bolts and maybe cams but for the sake of getting the thing up and running I'm not too bothered just now, would rather get some seat time it before deciding what to do with the engine.

Cheers mate, what can you say to that, i'm glad you like it, yours was one of the first project threads I read from start to finish so a lot of my inspiration to build one of these cars is down to you! Did a bit more on it today, finished welding the bracket for the upper gearbox mounting then...

Aye, think we were talking about the same thing, the front one has been cut back No chance the wheel is going to touch that The rib on the right/back shouldn't be an issue, picture the scenario, turning hard right so suspension loaded up on front left corner, the leading edge of the tyre...

Assume your meaning the back of it, or the bit on the right as you look at it in that picture? Most of the load on that part of the tower is in a vertical plane so removing those bits probably isnt going to hurt them too much, having said that I wasnt going to touch the back one unless I need...

Yeah should do, I could have gone higher but as I mentioned holding a wheel up in the arch, the subframe would almost be on the ground when the tyre touches the inner arch. If I draw the hubs forward by tweaking the bolt holes for the bottom ball joint that'll bring the tyre into the area with...

Cheers, Its a Gas Mig, also got Tig, but sometimes that doesn't like welding to the car even when it looks clean, the zinc plating on the reverse side often gets drawn through once you get a puddle going.

As usual I had a few other things to be getting on with today which resulted in me losing the best part of the morning but still managed to make a some progress Cut out a bit of 1.2mm sheet and bridged the gap on the inner wing, A wee bit of filler along the join should tidy it up, some seam...

Base coat and lacquer used to be all solvent based, they changed it to a water based base coat, ie the colour, but even that still uses a solvent based lacquer. Topcoat, 2k or 2 pack was and still is solvent based, they can't make that water based or at least not yet, what they did do however...

Coming along well, Pisser about setting the dash on fire though, at least you've got a good template to cut the next one, chance to get it even neater. One thing I've not done while doing mine, well least not properly lol, had some seam sealer/underseal fires that took a few swipes with a wet...

lol, no need to start from scratch, you've got some invaluable seat time in yours now, this stuff is relatively easy to do, just metal and time. Dont think I've ever sat in an MR2 yet alone worked on one! but I appreciate the comment none the less

Tubbed front wheel arches I'd already chopped out the original inner wing so no pics of that but then you all know what they look like anyway. Marked up and ready to be cut out I left a 10mm lip and folded this up to help retain some strength in the original strut tower and make it easier...

Hehe, I've shared lots of ideas so far, quite a few of which have been replicated by others on here, can't give everything away!

Cheers for the info For the initial engine spec I'm not sure how far I want to go with it, rod bolts are a defo but not sure if ill put Cams in it or not. There's probably more benefit, for me at least, getting the car finished and get some seat time in it before spending money on a proper...

Looks good, what have you done with the others? Think I'm going to add an extra bit to the one I've made, probably strong enough but for all the time it'll take to add an extra piece in. As I'm sure you know once you make the bushes stiffer the mounting points need to be stronger as more load...

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Cracking write up James, look forward to reading about the winter rebuild.

Yeah pretty much, although it'll still see a bit of torque. I was going to get my mate to come up and do these but I'll never get better at Tig if I keep asking him to do things for me, I tried my best to get the prep and fit up as good as I could and did a root and cap on all the pieces...

Wasn't planning to run the 2-piece shafts so those holes are free but getting something useable onto them and then onto the subframe isn't easy. There's still another tube to go onto that O/S mount to triangulate it, as it is just now I wouldnt be comfortable with the potential sideways flex in...

Know what you mean now, dont think it'll be an issue, I did briefly look at trying to put something back there but it would be a total nightmare to get to. The cup racers only had 3 mounts, since I've got an extra one on the box that should help spread the load out a bit more evenly, time will tell!