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We paint them & supply , we do them for £285 painted and delivered lol, we also get a discount from K-Tec for the Sprint spoilers, which we pass on..........we also do the Cup spoilers painted and delivered, with trade prices for the part.
Yep it will be very pressure / damp dependant, up and down......my supra that we are redoing from scratch in my project thread has the same,....it went back to the shop that did it for water blisters (much bigger ones than urs)...they redid the bits that were showing up, but it started to show...
Howdy, IMO its all got to come off, its either water in the base coat (water based), water in the primer (after wet sanding), solvents trapped in the base coat (solvent pop) or some kind of paint reaction. Either way its all go to come off.........pop a blister see if anything comes out of it.
Im going to open it to a forum vote with a few options i think............couple of colours ive got in mind are LQ yellow, Alien Green but im open to suggestions.........i definately want something that will stand out
Thanks guys, yes im hoping to go to the nth degree with it and bring it too the show this year, but time maybe be a problem. I thought this was BS, but yes all japan cars come with a flare......hes mine......
The question is........do i try it?
**Also the japanese owner must of been a bit...
Hi chaps, this is our shop project for the next month or 2, its a Supra twin turbo, JSpec. I bought this car ~5 years ago as the first UK owner, before i was in the trade. I did your usual BPU (basic performance upgrade) mods to the car, so its running ~380bhp and 1.2 bar of boost, full blitz...
If its rattle can paint, just put thinners direct to to it on a cloth, will come off easy and assuming your car is 2 Pack lacquered it wont touch the lacquer, just dont go bathing the car in the stuff. Then you can buff it off afterwards if theres some wiping residue.
As above really, and keep your paint THIN!, on a side note, there are special self etching lacquers for direct to bare polished metal, but ive not used them and they are professional paints, so not a good idea to use at home.
If you take the alloy bare metal, personally id use a high build epoxy primer......they do it in a spray can, direct to bare metal, even alloy , sticks like crap to a sheeps back side and has anti rust built in. If you dont use epoxy, you will need a metal etch primer then standard 1K primer...
2bh Monaco is a problem colour in our experiences.......alot of clios arent factory original, theres also the odd, friday after noon car floating around lol. I tried all IXELL shades against my own monaco clio years ago and not one was even close, also all the shades are country mile off from...
Wet spray FTW, need a close up picture to see why they are so damn dull, but its probably heavy orange peal or crap in the PC. Should be an easy colour change, good sand, get them level, optional prime (as PC is a good primer really), a perky silver base coat, lacquer
If you get the any black plastics done, just make sure they smooth the texturing off, else they still wont look like an OEM finish. Id get the door handles done, and get them to use IXELL 205-110 anthracite / 205-88 silver for the bullets.
<----- If your bringing just the parts to us, we'll beat any sensible quote, assuming its to the same quality of work. Would need to see the parts to quote you.
If you got anouther BG bonnet match will be fine, assuming its a factory finish on new bonnet. If you used your current bonnet it would have to be stripped right back and totally refinished, which will be expensive.
If you want new, as in "new new" then talk to us about one painted and supplied. If your cars orig paint the match to BG to the rest will be really good, it isnt a problem colour.
Thats most likely been repaired at some point, my money would be on a paint reaction being the cause......
here would be a nice list of paint defects!....
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/s/trouble/PDSG_Cracking.html
Origin and Potential Causes:
Excessive film thickness...