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From memory the ph1 exhaust ports are actually a little too big aren't they?
Usually the difference is well within the margin of error. You can't really compare dynos with dynos either so they have to be same day, back to back as above.
Slight update, new bodies test fitted and the cam bungs are out and it's locked at tdc to make a custom tool for the timing.
Going to be tight on the alternator adjuster, new trumpets are a little longer so I'm nearly outside the car...
Afternoon all,
I've been looking for a box for my Ph1 with a diff in and someone has offered me a cup box with a Megane final drive and a gripper.
Ideally I was after a cup box for the shorter gearing but I can't figure out if a cup box with a meg final drive will actually offer me that after...
Same dyno, my car (standard ph1 engine with 197s and obx bodies) and chip's car (197 head and internals, AT power bodies), I made 6 more bhp. There can't be much point in the expense of doing it for that sort of 'gain'.
Another update :mad:..
Autoglass came yesterday with the right screen.
The technician found that the last time the screen has been done both scuttle clips had been binned and the screen trims had been re-used and just filled with clear silicone sealant. So some utter cowboy reused the single...
Ahh, it's just one of those things. Karma for being a knob when I was younger no doubt.
Front end needs paint anyway so it's not going to be a major expense, it's just extremely annoying. Saw it while waiting for Autoglass who also brought the wrong screen, all in all an annoying day of Vee...
A few more bits to go on.
Replacing the obx bodies with DCOE and an SF adaptor, going to run the angle spacers and try to point them right down at the grille.
'Solved' the rattle on mine some years ago but the post got buried on here when someone disagreed with the cause... Funny how it worked if I was wrong on what caused it?
You need to cut a rubber spacer from some hosing a few mm thick and add to the spring in the knob with a thin layer of...