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The MOT History check is very much worth it and it is free!

I am biased but I say go with a 172 especially after a play with a 197 yesterday :). Considering what people value them at here you get a 172 with all of the work done for a great amount of cash.

My valuation may be off but if it is clean I would say £1500. You buy a shitter of a 172 for £700 and spend that and more again to get it to a similar standard to yours. But then I would expect nothing more from a valuations thread ;).

I am aware of that, and this of course can become a problem with a clutch type of LSD in a FWD 'box despite them meaning to be the 'best' type of diff. :) This seems to make the Quaife ATB a great solution. From the Peugeot days it seemed that the gearboxes ran better on the BV rated stuff from...

I'd ring up Quaife to see what they recommend but I suspect the OE grade will be recommend. Unlike a plate/clutch pack LSD Quaife ATBs do not require fancy LSD specific oils due to them being a geared differential.

I always see a few and know of one or two of them. One being a Black 53 lowered 172 owned by Jimmy. Today however I came across two Renault Sport Clios! One was a Trophy which I suspect is in the top of Leamington with the no. plate BJ55 ***. This car was by the BMW dealership in Heathcote...

I did the following a while ago, and the brakes a week ago, but I have been away from here: So to copy and paste from elsewhere... The story was left with my car going to BTM Performance to have its cambelt change undertaken. Whilst it was there the dephaser rattle was picked out almost...

I agree, but I was merely making a point ;). As said, a stock 172 that day did 180BHP on the dyno. I doubt that figure as well!

I take it I go through Curborough or is it done via the forum?

Which Bilstein dampers do you have? As for the top mounts I would go genuine :).

I'll have to check mine, but are your rattle pads/springs present between the pads caliper?

Yes. Aftermarket ignition are more hassle than they are worth. BTDT. I could quote examples but I shall save boring you. That is not to say that getting 'uprated' bits is better either.

Leave it as it is but keep or obtain all of the standard parts. That way you can enjoy the fruits of your labour and protect the investment aspect of the car :). A Clio Sport and an RST? You do have great taste. At the risk or derailing the thread what RST is it and do you have any specs?

Depends on the RR. If the CS RR was anything to go by mine made 190BHP. If however I assume the RR was optimistic (although some doubt it was :/) and that a stock 172 with a rattling dephaser made 172 then mine was probably around 180BHP. As for telling it is remapped? It's tricky. An RR can...

Depends on the condition. Mainly stop start journeys where the engine is barely warm will see me getting 26-28MPG. A mixture of stuff will see me getting 33MPG. The best I have seen is 42MPG with a drive up to Chester. It was combination of A roads and motorways. That is calculated via the...

The next time one of these is on I would be interested in going down :).

Without sounding massively bitchy, as a trader for another brand it costs me just shy of £5 to send an oil filter in a jiffy bag. NI? Moreso than that. I think to the EU it cost £10 from memory. £22 however is taking the biscuit. K&N cleaner should do it as should the PiperX stuff. My KTR...

To me it sounds like a combination of faults. The system not being bled properly and the fan not working; Most of the cars I have seen have the AC condenser in front of the radiator. Does the fan work with the AC on?

I shall see. You cannot go wrong with a meeting at the Ace. I do have work the next day and it is an hour travelling there and another back. But I never walk away disappointed.

I'd at least go for a decent brand unless you are planning to sell the car within 18 months...

If the tracking was out before and now it is OK there is a chance that the tyres have worn to the old geometry settings which will make driving the car interesting. If it were me I would get the car's tracking checked and change the tyres. The bodge would be to switch the tyres front to back...

It congeals and turns almost solid. There is a reason why it is called anti-seize and not lubricating :wink:. I have deseized so many sticking sliders (including my current 172) from people who have previously used Copper Grease (and I cannot tell if it was the reason for my issue) discs and...

I am going to be honest here. IMHO they are not that bad a buy secondhand at all. A friend of mine and his brother have respectively owned a Clio 172 and 182 respectively for 5 years. In that time the cars have seen work on them but no worse than a similar car for the age. If it helps a 172...

I guess I got a little lost in all of the waffle! What I was trying to say that while it was not the best way to go about changing the belt it certainly was not as horrific as some posters are marking out. As said it looks similar to the CA18 :).

For me it has to be the K-Tec system. I shall put up a video of one on here during the week :).

It depends on who you talk to I suggest you check this thread: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/154628-how-do-cam-belt-service.html It seems they time them up the old fashioned way. It is iffy what Car SOS did but it is also the way many cambelts were changed. Just simply marks were how many...

The breather seal going in between the inlet manifold and the cam cover is another suspect.

Is that a stock or Powerflex item? The Dogbone mount is something I am looking to change in mine. In a previous 1.4 it made a massive difference but the mount that came off was shot so anything would have been an improvement!

That is a relief. This is something I was looking into changing on my car. On a previous car it made quite a difference.

I managed to get 159BHP at the wheels. Not bad for a 172 :):