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Been digging around the internet looking for the best prices for Tranself 75w80 gear oil. Cheapest place I've found so far is http://www.nielsencdg.co.uk/acatalog/Elf_Tranself_NFJ_75W-80_158484_Gear_Oil_1_Litre.html they also have an ebay account and it's a little cheaper on there...
Highly recommend Koni adjustable shocks. Ran them on my Cup with Eibach Sportlines and they were very good. As Martin says though, it's an expensive do.
I've had one on mine for 5months and had no issues at all. They are pretty rigid with very little flex in them. I was worried it might cause damage to the rear exhaust brackets but I've had no such problems so far.
I had something similar with mine during the colder months, engine wouldn't rev even with the throttle pedal flat to the floor, only happened for a brief few moments and only ever did it the once. I was told it was more than likely fuel related i.e injectors etc.
They're a really strange colour, depending on the lighting they look different. If it's really bright they turn out red but if it's really dark they look pale orange.
Just to update this if anyone else has a similar issue. Turned out I had a worn tie rod and track rod end. I replaced them both and it solved my problem.
Lol, I wondered why no one was queing at the burger bar, never realised they'd ran out.
Good meet Ash, shame about the couple of incidents on the way to SP but all in all a successful meet.
What do you mean? Their RR is absolutely bang on, very lightly modded Clios running 197bhp y0!
Sounds like it's v-tec'n as soon as it's coming on to b00st lol.
Sounds like a tracking issue, could be it's just needs re-aligning or you've got worn tie rods or track rod ends. I've got a worn tie rod on mine currently and I get that, pulling the wheel from side to side over bumps, it also follows contours in the road.
And he lives in the posh part (if that exists in Manchester) lol
Mine has been going up and up every year, I started off paying £650 for my Cup, following year it jumped up to £700 and now on my ph-1 it's 1k. Brentacre have always provided me with the cheapest quotes.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-Pro-400mm-Steering-Arm-Removal-Tool-28-35mm-NEW-/330606494500?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4cf9aec324#ht_7165wt_1185
Is your tool something like this one? Just a shame they're so expensive really considering I'd probably only ever use it once.
Cheers Fred and yeahhh I noticed in one of your replies explaining that it'd need slimming down as the flats on the nut are slim.
Cheers mate. Do you mean that black tube thing? Was looking at them but could only find places in the states that stock them and were £70+.
I've had a dig around the forum and various other places about this and to save a lot of trouble and no doubt swearing I'm going to try using a crowfoot spanner head. All I need to know for certain is the size I'd need. I'm pretty certain it's a 32mm I need but just need someone in the know to...
Re: 182 Pure Motorsport top mounts& strut brace,worth it over standard rubber mounts?
Can't comment about the pure motorsport mounts as I've never experienced them. The ASTs were way to harsh for road use, or that might be me getting old and not being able to take it lol.
Agree with you on...
Re: 182 Pure Motorsport top mounts& strut brace,worth it over standard rubber mounts?
If it's just a road car then fitting solid topmounts is over kill IMO, I had ASTs on mine and on rough bumpy roads it drove me insane. On track it was a completely different story though.
Replaced a track rod end (passenger side) not so long ago, inner tie rod doesn't appear to have have any play. Drivers side Track Rod end and inner tie rod appear fine also.