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The end of the threads is there to lock the threads in place. The small section between the two threaded ends) Hence why increasing the torque will make it more difficult to come undone

And why is that?

10 points to chip Let's say I've taken the initial thread to 50Nm Whilst torquing to 100Nm the second part will stretch until 50Nm is achieved, Then the whole stud will stretch evenly to 100Nm All whilst remaining within its elastic limits

If you'd like to come into the moss and be proven wrong by mechanical engineers with a combined 100+ years of experience I can have this arranged.

No you won't, you will stretch the threads in the hub applying a torque to them Agree with Morgan that FT is the way to go

No you won't.

fraser. false call pal Chip has basically just emphasised what I said not having enough torque on the studs when initially put into the hub will increase the chances of them coming off with the nut He obviously didn't read the part where I said "it will all be at 100nm by the time it is...

if you increase the torque applied to the stud when you put it in a combination of the increased torque and the locktite will make it harder to come out. That's just common sense. I fully understand that torqueing the nut is what holds the wheel onto the car The point that 'm getting at is...

listen to who you want, if you weren't such a f**king dubass you'd understand the principles of elasticity in metal

god knows, mines seems to be okay, i'll see how it goes on track lol

depends on what you see as adequate time before refitting the wheel. I left mines for all of 20 minutes lol

yep.

ahhh coco strikes again I swear that man has everything

both frasers and stuarts were set before being taken onto the track. the thermal expansion In the hub has probably been enough to allow the studs to come loose

as I've said, tightening them to 20nm is not enough hence why yours have came loose Also why stus have came loose twice At the end of the day as long as I don't take it above the original specified torque values for the car then no harm has been done. it will all be at 100nm by the time it is...

im running the pms kit and I've not had any issues so far! my only recommendation would be to tighten the studs into the hubs without the use of a torque wrench. I just don't think 20nm is enough tbh I used an allen key and just done them up tight with that.

fraser when ive got the brake bleeder home from work we can just do both cars. It sucks the fluid through from the bleed nipple so it should be a relatively clean and quick job :)

superblue seems like a good option however i'm an arsepiece. Castrol SRF requires testing north of the border I feel. Shall order some up at the tail end of next week and get it fired in. We've got a new brake bleeder at work so I can test that out too! LOL :D

I do use the car on track, the Halfords stuff seems to not be lasting to well. bled the brakes a few times and I get a soft pedal half way through sessions I'm runnin Carbon lorrainnes so I know its not the pads lol

ive heard a lot about superblue but there has to be more out there surely?

Currently I believe my car has halfrauds dot 5.1 in it Im looking to drain the fluids and replace them with something a bit better. What do people recommend: 1: for someone on a budget 2: someone who isn't on a budget

im actually unsure. i was at xtreme in broxburn and it made 200 which is unrealistic, swr put it on a different set of rollers and i made 191 but i don't believe that either. I'm thinking i must be around 180, hopefully i can get it onto the rollers soon and get a figure

I've got 438's all be it i had a pretty weak engine in the car also got a v6 airbox, matched inlets and a de-cat need to get in on the rollers again as i'm running a different engine with the same mods :) also need to get up to crail

i'm guessing you were at crail? I managed a 14.37 in my 172 hopefully i'll beat that this year :D

mines is also a ruined "track car"

it'd have to be done the same as the sunflower register. get everyone with an iceberg to state the date that it was first registered. never going to happen on here, there will be so many missing now

whos idea was that?

Fs, I've got wheel it covers in my shed! For the sake of a tenner it's not the end of the world

which body shop is doing the work gary?

if you get the engine supported and remove the upper engine mount look down into the hole there is a 17mm (i think) bolt take that out and the big stupid weight will be removed (sitting below and infront of the mount)