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It's not something we'd sell

Coolant and antifreeze is a topic we are asked about on a regular basis, and often causes confusion; types, colours, service life etc. Perhaps the most frequent cause of confusion is what the difference between anti-freeze or coolant is. Basically, they’re the same product (although the term...

We tried the cruize seen once, generally unless it is shiny, or glows and they can show it to their mates they are not interested.

Thinner oil is definately a performance increase compared to a massive spoiler on a 1L car.

When you start the car when it's cold, drive it gently until it's up to temp. The oil need to warm to flow properly, one of the reasons we often recommend an oil that's thin when cold. It's also better to drive it gently to warm it, rather than just leave it ticking over on the drive.

0w-20 can take fairly high temps, as they tend to have very little additives/polymors in them. The trouble be being able to maintain enough pressure, it is easier on a drysump system, if your oil pump can handle it then try it out. Cheers Guy

As the temps are only around 100C, use a good 5w-40. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Cheers Tim

It's a bit thick for a Clio, go for a 75w-80 or 70w-80 like the Fuchs Sintofluid, Redline MTL or Amsoil MTF http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx Cheers Tim

You could use it, but it's a little thin, 5w-40 or 5w-30 is a better choice.

Any idea what oil temps you are getting? Anything under 130C and I'd stick with a good 5w-40 or 10w-40 (I guess you are talking about a Clio track car). Same for the road car (again, if it's a Clio), but I'd go for a 5w-40 for road use to get better cold start protection than a 10w-40. Using a...

At this time of year, it’s beneficial to use an oil that has good cold start flow properties as it will get to the parts of the engine that need it far more quickly when you turn the key on those sub zero mornings. The "w" number which means winter is the key here and the lower it is the...

Yes and no, there are additives in there to prevent carbon build up, but they are also in 'petrol' oils too. If you look on a can of oil, there will be an ACEA spec on the back, something like ACEA A3/B3. A refers to petrol specs, B refers to diesel and most of the time the numbers are likely to...

I would hope the 300V will sort out the consumption issues, it's a more stable oil than the Halfords stuff, so shouldn't burn off as quickly. Yes, it's ideal for a Supra TT. 5w-40 is the best grade for them, even with BPU, it's only when they have big single turbos that you need a thicker...

Most garages will save a couple of quid anywhere they can, not all, but most that I've dealt with. One problem is they often don't really understand like for like, Carlube 5w-40 is a pretty basic 5w-40, Castrol Edge is one of the better ones, just below the top end ester based oils, but all they...

Fair enough, but what sort of synthetic? Cheap 'synthetics' aren't really synthetics, they are highly modified mineral oils. Yes they are better than semis etc, and fine for road use, but not as good as the top end stuff.

Not so sure about that, at the moment they are made by Castrol, according to what we've heard, but it really doesn't matter as the oil is just a basic one made as cheaply as possible to meet the requirements Halfords set. Even if Comma are making the Halfords stuff at the moment, I doubt it's...

Hi Those additives are a waste of money, most do nothing, others are harmful. We're not big fans of Royal Purple, the oils are generally okay, but hideously overpriced. We also had some chemically analysed and found high levels of sulphur. In an engine, the heat can cause the sulpur to...

It really doesn't matter who makes it, it's made to a budget by the lowest bidder, so it's not as good as a proper Castrol oil. The basestock used and additive package are a lot more basic than the ones used in the proper Castrol oils. Another thing, the guy at Halfords isn't going to tell your...

As long as it's not been opened, it will be fine. Give it a shake to make sure the additives haven't settled out, but other than that it will be okay.

Good choice and thanks for the order

Hi Adam I think a couple of their oils are genuine synthetic, but not all of them and I'm pretty sure they don't make any ester ones. Cheers Tim

If you want the best, go for a top end ester oil like the Fuchs Pro S, Redline, Gulf Competition, Millers CFS or Motul 300V, they are the best oils on the market. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Yes and no. Regular changes can be important, but even if you change a basic oil every couple of weeks, it still won't give as good protection as a top end oil changed annually or at 10k

Yes, most race type oils are fine for road use, very few aren't. Millers CFS is top quality stuff, ideal for road and track use.

You were right, but they discontinued it

I guess it's still under warranty, so you need an oil that meets the Renault 710 spec, so here are some suitable ones http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-878-motul-8100-x-clean-5w-40-acea-c3-gasoline-diesel-lubricant-for-euro-iv-engines.aspx...

Pro S is top end stuff, as good as oil gets. Gally, I can't really answer your question as apart from Mobil 1, the rest are brands that produce several different oils of varying quality. Mobil 1 is pretty good, a proper synthetic, the step below the top end oils like the Pro S All oils are...

Hi Adam Pretty average stuff, nothing special really. Cheers Tim

You can top up with either, all engine oils mix. Cheers Guy

I would use a 5w-40 synthetic and you will find those through the link below. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Gulf Formula G, Fuchs Supersyn...