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So the lines are in and just need pining down now.
Redrilled the rear arches in the end. As per my earlier post I ordered a new hose from Hel, order Friday PM arrived today and is spot on. Great service.
Whilst ordering the hose I figured out what Proline had done to my bulk head fixings...
Nearly there with routing.
Defo going to redrillthe holes lower and hope the hoses will sit better as they currently float of the floor ?
I also sorted my bulk head hose as I got pretty bored.
Rear lines are done, I may have drilled the hole through the wheel arch 10/20mm to high which may effect the lines inside to the T piece.
Maybe be an issue but I’ll cross that bridge later.
Decided I’m going to start from the rear of the car to fit these brake lines.
Finally got some new bolts for the rear calipers to stub axle.
Whilst it was too late I decide to get the drivers front hose to fitted with out rubbing and cut a little piece of metal out.
Need to drill through...
I’ve driven the same clio cup with hard lines and then with braided, and both were fine to me tbh, all personal preference.
I only went this way for easy and time saving which isn’t currently working lol.
It was your set up I was copying tbf as I knew you had the grommet kit I presumed it would be a bit longer.
I possibly gunna have to drill a hole in the bulk head to pass the 90 degree connector through and make a L shape bracket riveted to the bulk head, with a hole in to tighten the bulk head...
Started to look at where the brake lines will run inside the car today.
It seems the lines before and after the brake bias valve are to long. Well at least one of them is to get them to run neatly. This might just be me being a bit OCD but running how I’d like the T piece is in the spare wheel...
I know JC weld fab do a fab job but couldn’t you save time and buy a PMS exhaust? Well built light and pretty quiet on the DB reader?
Also I’ll be keen to know how you get on at Northampton Motorsport. I’m looking for somewhere close to map mine. Scoff at EFi has always done an amazing job but...
Yeah your right. I’ve spent an hour every morning last week messing with the position. It’s fairly central yeah, loads better than the seating position in my old blue cup shell with standard rails and seat subframes.
If I was to weld my own rails in I’d probably do them a tad lower tho but...
So after many hours and many different types of side mounts my seat is finally in. Needs final tightening but it’s in and out the way. Was a lot of messing about as was working around welded in seat rails suited to a different seat and my side mounts.
Now that’s in I can work out where the...
There the same dimension as the 172/182 discs but like Mark says the bearing is bigger so better reliability.
Thanks Mark, I was hoping that was the case it’s all bolted up nicely lol.
Rear beam is back on.
Fitted the PMS stub axle kit, couldn’t fit the calipers as need need bolts.
Anyone else fitted the kit? I just fired the kit on and thought afterwards there wasn’t the little spacer that sits behind the disc in the kit.
Do the twingo discs use the spacer or does the...
Did you change the arb bushes with the subframe off? If so how ?
I tried fitting black series yesterday and now only have 1 bush as the other is about 6 gardens up my street ??
So my PMS rear beam is nearly on, just waiting on new bolts to mount it to the chassis and then can add the PMS shims, spacers, billet stub axles, twingo rear discs and new calipers.
I’m trying to get this shell rolling as soon as possible which made sense to remove the subframe next ??♂️
I’ve not actually looked as the brake discs didn’t fall off, so I’m guessing it’s a standard beam rather than a separate hub bearing and normal disc like the cup racers ran