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First things first, start by getting the handwheel and the rack centralised.
Then fit the upper UJ in-plane with the EPAS motor output and the intermediate shaft as per the pics I sent.
Then fit the lower UJ in-plane with the inter shaft and the rack input as per the pics - I appreciate this...
Success! The replacement UCH arrived today and after swapping it out everything is working as it should!
For anyone who comes across this thread in the future: make sure you get the EXACT part number, as "UCH-N3" isn't close enough. You need the long PN starting P8200..
As a side note, I...
Good stuff! Which way to rotate it.. well that's not an answer I can really give you without being there looking at it! BUT.. if you follow the setup in my long post that should hopefully be enough to guide you. The three pics show what you're looking to get to.
Yeah have a quick check.. I'd be surprised if it didn't separate somehow. There might be some kind of feature that only allows it to go in one position, though.. such as a flat or a wider spline somewhere. If not, you can adjust it.
It's hard to see, but does your intermediate shaft come in two parts? It looks like your upper UJ has splines going into the intermediate shaft, so possibly could be rotated?
I assume it does split, so you can get that big rubber whatsit over it.
Wow, firstly.. shut my mouth, because that's definitely a noticeable difference in caster!
Yes the wibbly wobbly bits at the start and end of the steering column are the universal joints.. you have two UJs on your column. Each UJ has two "yokes", which are the U-shaped bits - on the upper UJ...
Just adding my thoughts to all this before you chop your wishbones up!
I don't think it's possible for you to alter caster enough with some modified wishbones for it to have such an effect.. you would have to have the ball joint quite far out to alter the caster angle enough to have a drastic...
The UCH has been re-coded to my old one, so should be plug & play without changing anything else. I believe this is what happens when you buy a new UCH from Renault.
Update - I tried to start the car yesterday but no joy.. sometimes the engine wouldn't even crank, others it would crank for a random amount of time then stop. The immobiliser light is on solid, suggesting the fault persists with the new UCH.
I cleaned the engine bay relays and this helped get...
Hi All,
I just replaced the UCH on my 172 Cup with a re-programmed unit from eBay (i.e. sent my old unit off to be decoded). Everything seems to work, but the key fob will only lock the car, not unlock it. If I lock the car, I have to get in by unlocking the passenger door, which sets the alarm...
Exact wording is "..vehicles first issued with a vehicle passport from 01 Jan 2019.." so it doesn't look like they'll force this on cars that have already got a passport, but you're right in that any pre-certified cage will need to have them installed to obtain a new passport from 2019 onwards...
The problem with T45 is you're still bound to minimum material spec of 50mm x 2mm / 40 x 2mm so you don't save any weight at all - unless you have the money to get a cage homologated!
It definitely does look cool!
That is an issue but there's always a clause that it's for new builds and not cages with an existing certification (such as Neil's). Unless MSA are changing tact now and making a whole load of previously certified cars ineligible? I'd be very surprised if that were...
All additions to the cage mentioned would be nice but it all adds weight.. we're talking +10kg easily for A-pillars and harness bars alone, and that's the kind of weight people go to a lot of trouble to try and remove! If the cage is certified then no reason to add anything more. :up:
You mean where they're shrouded by the A & B pillars?
You don't tack or weld the main roll hoops to the footplates until after fully welding all the roof & door bars, otherwise in most cases you'll never get the torch in the gap to complete the weld.
Evening all..
Some WIP shots of Neil's car having its cage installed :grin:
Should have it finished tomorrow :up:
(PS now I have 97 pages of project thread to read.. 😅)
This one is a demo car, as the owner plans to make them available to buy.. :grin:
Talking of videos.. I did manage to recover one from my GoPro, but it deleted everything else!
This is me crapping myself for the first few laps, then as much video as I could recover after that..
It's been a while since I last posted here.. lots of little jobs being finished over the past few weeks, so not much to report on until now.
I'll start with a bit of a catch-up.. there were a few things to finish off from the summer as well as some improvements to be made: the car now has an...
For up-shifts it has a switch on the barrel lever to initiate the cut and uses barrel position to complete, for downshifts it just uses the blip mechanism to open the throttle, which unloads the dogs and rev-matches.
I'm on holiday at the mo so will post an update when I'm back, but the mapping...
Right, sorry it's been a while! I went off on holiday for a bit but the car is now back in one piece with a new driveshaft and ready for the (hopefully 3rd time lucky) mapping session on Monday.
The big job (other than driveshafts) has been making a mechanical throttle blip linkage for...
I spoke to them a little while ago.. they said the "test" shafts are sent out dry and only meant for checking the length, but I distinctly remember him saying we could run the car and make sure everything is OK! The shafts came assembled, booted & clipped, so it baffles me as to why they'd...
Yeah, with so many bits that were never really intended to go together stuff like this tends to happen.. although as per below this one should never have been a problem!
It immediately became obvious what had happened yesterday and what caused it.. a picture says a thousand words!
What...