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I've just left the land of @nius02, don't have photo game like any of you chaps but here's a few I took while I was here on my trusty sony a200. Black marks in the top left and right are the ropey lens.
@Timmsy It'll be in a few weeks as I'm just about to go away for a couple of week :) Will drop you a text when I'm going to be down.
@Akay Forgot to answer your last question too! The original cable was 16mm, terrible non-flex 7 wire core junk. The new one is 35mm high flex with some of these as...
Afternoon chaps. Trying to get to the bottom of my steering problems in the 182. Unstable at high speeds in a straight line, feels like there is barely any steering for the first few degrees then it's like the car over steers. Happens with left and right inputs.
Anyway, two videos of my shocks...
As always nothing goes to plan. Went to three shops this morning to try and get a deep 18 socket or 12mm spark plug spanner for the gearbox mount to no avail. I also attempted to fit the braided lines today and the unions appear to be seized. I didn't try to hard as I don't yet own a brake pipe...
Brill! I need to get one of these, the ebay one I bought that was "for a clio" didn't even remotely fit and kept blowing off. I'm also looking at getting something to put on the ground as I park my car on the mud and the dampness has totally destroyed the underside of my car this winter.
Still got this problem, haven't touched the rear beam but convinced it's something else. The steering feels a bit loose in the middle and then the resistance kicks in and the car turns.
Could be the rear main seal behind the flywheel. Honestly don't worry about it too much. A clio without a leak is a rather rare find. Could also be the gearbox selector seal.
That looks like a brilliant package you bought there.
Cambelt and dephaser is usually about £500 on a car with A/C but a cup would be cheaper. Dephaser sounds like a rattle from the top of the engine which should be easy to hear.
All the other plans sound great. I'd check the angle of those rear...
I saw a car with this the other day, the car is in limp mode and probably has the coil type light on the dash. The FBW throttle has two tracks which do the same thing but act as a fail safe, you need to know which track is not working and then go from there.
Hopefully this should help. Check...
Update 3 - PMS shifter
Thanks for the comments chaps :) Turns out I'm also working on the car this week too so am trying to finish the car totally so it's ready for a track day with no panic prep needed. Did a couple of bits today. Couldn't easily sort the 172 manifold knocking on the subframe...
That is incredibly odd! I was just about to post some screen shots of what my cup shows in all the parameters on clip. Good to hear it's going matey :) Do you have a map to swap across or was it standard?
Cheers matey, slow progress but I'll get there in the end....if there is an end.
Thank you :) Your car is a big inspiration. I'm actually now keeping the ducts because the new ones didn't work well with the cutting I'd already done to the bumper. CMComposites is still going matey but the site...
Update 1
It's action week! I'm spending the whole week working on the car after having my final ever uni exam on Monday. Since January time there's been a huge growing pile of parts in my living room ready for me to fit but it's certainly a task to get them all done in such a short time period...
Holy Moses that's an amazing figure Mark. Really brilliant, makes me want to stay N/A with numbers that high and a rev limit like that. Thumbs up on a stunning build. Congratulations on the little un too, I missed that until now.
Ah yes perfect, thanks Mark. I'm going to call up MF next week to get the measurements for the cross but it does look like there's plenty of room for that tiny pod.
Go into all the modules and clear all the faults. I think for the connection unit (uch, clocks) you need to switch off the ignition to clear the faults.
Will be something like this but of course for the immob. Those little grey circles will have red or amber. Red is current and amber is historical and logged fault. Second screen print is what it looks like when you click on the X.DEF button
I don't think those are the faults matey, those are the detectable faults which is everything that CLIP can find wrong with the system. When you click on faults test it will come up with a list and either a red or Amber lamp next to the fault and it'll have something like 1 DEF, 2 DEF. If you...
You'll be best dropping the subframe so may as well do inner anti roll bar bushes whilst you're at it. They're 25mm and awful to do at any other time. I'd probably leave everything else unless it's causing your greif, it can all be changed another time if needed.
I find it best to unbolt the...
Solid red immob light can be a few things. Usually the relay in the main engine fusebox though or the gearbox earth. Try those first. Failing that check for continuity and voltage drop in all the cables going from the ecu to the uch. Clip will only be able to tell you a couple of things, that...
Just wondering if anyone would be interested in doing a rolling road day on a summer, July or August time at the weekend with SRR or somewhere similar.
I can never make the earlier one in the year because my car is off the road for winter. Sure there would be a few people in this situation...