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Can just about see the relays in the bottom right of this pic Another pic from the net. The small black ones. This is hot wiring of the relays to rule them out. Someone else's pic from a ph1 though so slightly different layout of relays.

Rob, that to me sounds like the immobiliser light is on solid (just read it is), few things to check. Make sure the earth on te gearbox is secured properly at both ends. As the light is solid it means the key is recognised but the immobiliser can't turn off. It's usually a hardware problem...

It can be done with CLIP although serves absolutely no purpose at all so I wouldn't waste your time!

Should be as you described. If it's n/s it's easier. Pull the hub back on the ball joint and the shaft should go in no problems. Make sure you put copper slip on the driveshaft.

I had a look at these a while ago. They are a great bit of plug and play but don't offer much flexibility if you want to change things around and have an extremely limited resale market compared to a normal piggy back ecu. If you're happy with the spec it's designed for though I'd go for it.

EPAS is great, no risk of leaks and less rotational mass on the engine.

24mm is standard. Why risk a bolt snapping and a crash for the sake of a few quid on proportionally longer bolts.

No. Nonsport is 20mm and sport is 22.

I got some OEM ones but the old design and they're perfect. I've never actually had a problem with the original design! Cheers Keith, car feels brilliant now, not like it's done 146k. Need to do the same to my cup now...

Finished fitting my whole front end refresh. Car feels brilliant now.

30 minutes to do the climate and clocks, that must be a tease, that's removing snd soldering an SMD in under a minute! I've done white clocks with red displays, looks great and very oem. Also did all the switches, radio etc. Does take some good few hours to do it properly.

25 inner 23 outer they're the same size for all ph2 no matter whether cup or non cup. I've got the part numbers somewhere if you need them

The fuel pump has a relay in the engine fuse box. Maybe its stuck in one position or there's something problem with the live from the ecu which controls it

That looks absolutely superb Mark. Huge envy of your skills and patience to have such a brilliant build on and not rush things to get it done. Just everything is brilliant, love it.

Not many updates on the clio of late as I'm just running it. I do however have a few bits to do on the 182 tomorrow as I want the car to be safe and a pleasure to drive to the alps next month. It should make the car feel like new and take thousands of miles off it. Fitting Uniroyal rain sport...

Since buying my 182 in february I have spent 65% of its cost on new parts which of course was a bit of a shock when I added it up. I kind of expect to spend quite a lot on any car I buy though. Lots of people love cosmetics over how the car drives no matter what price bracket the car is in :)

When I used to do total loss claims I would have written that off with that damage as there's potentially geo problems with the rear wheel blah blah. If you've got your estimate though and accept liab for any additional repair costs then insurance wouldn't be a bad if it goes that way.

Unplug it from the socket under the glovebox maybe

Sorry I didn't see the post. Have you tried it without bridging the connection. It shouldn't affect getting the light to show on the dash, only setting it the speed and it being held. Looking at the diagram you don't need to bridge the connection. The connection is only made when the clutch is...

That's exactly how I understand it too. If renault only supply one part now (additional castor part) then it must universally fit. I remember @AlexW putting my 182 cup set up on his car and keeping the 54mm hubs no problem. @sburrell93 knows about the subframe too me thinks.

Yeah that's my current one.

Yep these are the ones for my 182 non cup. Here are some of my reg's current and previous for use! Wah, haven't had a ph2 172 non cup! ph1 - W975 LMW or Y62 GNJ 172 Cup - GD53 NUP 182 Full fat (cup suspension 60mm hubs and cup styling pack) - KB54 HWH or HV05 FKH 182 non cup suspension - LY54...

Yeah as said only one type of wishbone is supplied now for all of them. Part numbers end in 956 and 957 for left and right hand side. https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281608705383

I ordered them from ECP in the end, they're listed as 24mm but are the right part number so going to take the gamble at £4 each.

Ah I thought they were new. Have you tested the resistance on them? They should be 14.5 ohms. It does sound injector related to me. I've never heard of a flashing EML not being that.

You can get some for £50 a piece inc postage from Renault Wolverhampton on ebay.

That sounds like an injector which would be most strange. No fault code until the light is on permanently.

I assume to diagnose the cylinder head is the issue they have done a leak off test and have supplied leak off readings to you. If it's just a couple of valves which are leaking a touch you could get it repaired fairly easily by a machine shop. You do really need more specific details about why...

I love wiring nom nom nom Brake light feed is orange and earth black as usual. Car looks so good. A huge amount has happened since last year!

Nope. I actually have a sparco sprint V with omp subframe, a runner and universal ebay sidemounts! It's usually cross-compatible unless it specifically says otherwise. Base mount and sidemounts are a standard size so mix and match as you please.