Search results

Sorry I missed your post that would be my idea yeah although you NEED to have the diodes in there to prevent the signal going from one coil wire to the other and firing the wrong cylinders at the wrong time. It should work but I can't promise anything of course!

check the ARB bracket as I had one snap and do something similar to this. Put me off the scent for ages.

Some kind of subframe. OMP from YB racing is cheap. Then get a universal runner from ebay. Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sports-and-Bucket-Seat-Runners-Sliders-DUAL-LOCK-Universal-Fit-/311206548684?hash=item48755b14cc:g:JcQAAOSw7ThUhEcw You then bolt the runner to the subframe...

It's about time for an update me thinks. I haven't been down to the car since the MOT debacle as it's about 75 miles from where I've moved to now which is a shame as I'm desperate to do some work on the car before track day season is really upon us. I have been stock piling parts in the corner...

I forgot to do mine this weekend!

Yeah weird isn't it. I measured the car yesterday and it came up as 24mm on the outside so I just can't see any logic here! Glad they were good! their light output is certainly better than my new 182 ha.

Have a look here matey. Went into as much detail about it as possible last week ! http://www.cliosport.net/threads/epas-on-172-cup.687703/page-24#post-11076405

Another one! My cup had the epas dash loom already there too! It will end at the engine loom though so you need to get the wire from e3 in the r107 to the fuse box. That does mean the dash light and diagnostics will be wired in though which is good. A couple of the original plug wires will need...

I know there are lots of threads on this but they're contradicting what I've found. This is what's on Kam racing for my 182 which is a non-cup. Clio Ph2 2.0 16v RS-182: Outer mount - 22mm - PFF60-207-22 Inner mount - 25mm - PFF60-202-25 I've checked the OEM renault part number on the bush...

yes they fit, only the caster is different.

Think you saw my reply on FB!

What a total fail, I give up and am ordering new ones.

this is going to sound crazy but get some really fine grit sandpaper and use circular motions over the bit which is starting to melt, it will improve it no end. I will do this to mine at the weekend if you want to see the results before doing it.

Have you checked you actually have the cruise control wiring on the engine side of the loom as often the wiring is in the dash but stops at the bulkhead connector and then isn't in the ecu. cruise control is pin 23 in the ecu, speed limiter is pin 49 Pin 77 and 58 are the cruise control button...

@rrtam yeah that goes on the breather line which would go to the carbon canister. You can block the return from the canister with a bolt or bung. I had a little filter on the end of mine although it was an 8mm filter it wasn't perfect but stopped dirt getting in.

if youre wiring is correct then it should do. Putting 12v into the pin on the ECU which turns the cruise control on and off will verify.

Your clocks might need reprogamming to enable the cruise control light to show. Your ECU will also need telling the car has cruise control. What car is it as cruise control is not available on some smaller enginer petrols as the ECU doesn't have a load holding function.

Really not to sure but definitely worth a check. It's a bit of a drive for you but I can plug it into clip for you if you want to check what comes up.

dash off really. Doesn't take long though, especially on a car at the scrappies. Destroy anything in your path!

Have you unplugged the rear abs sensor loom which runs down the n/s bottom of the car? I know that sounds very obvious but it could have been knocked. The connector is just above the subframe triangle. Did the steering column get rotated when fitting as they potentially could have put the angle...

Yeah certainly could do, it wouldn't be a worse set up at all. The pins aren't difficult to remove if you have a few small screwdrivers to pop up clips and lugs but you can't really remove the wire from the pin and replace it with new wire without damaging the pin. I think Renault might sell the...

No worries :) I've never seen that kit with all the extra bits so that's certainly a step up on what it used to be! That negates the need to get the torque sensor wiring from the car then. The kit isn't aimed at doing OEM wiring though so that fuse holder and the black plug would replace the...

Oh my god it's on fooking fire Lol

Looks like you had a perfect day Keith. Would love to do a day there sometime with the clio guys. Less radicals though!!!

just done it

@Akay @markmcgivern

Okay chaps here we are. I've put together an excel sheet with pin out details of the connector into the EPAS ECU. There's a diagram in there too which should be self explanatory. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7cmvsr40rrv37jp/Power%20Steering%20Wiring.xlsx?dl=0 To get the factory wiring it's pin...

That could definitely be the problem. The pretensioner in the belt may have fired.

You actually remove the wire and pins from the OEM connectors. It's possible to run a total OEM set up with oem pins, wire and fuse conenctors. There is a place in the engine bay fusebox to clip on the additional fuse. It's a 60a. Will get the wiring this afternoon for you when I'm home.

You'd fuse at the start of the run so it would be at the end furthest from the PS ECU preferably before it enters the cabin. For the OEM wiring you have to remove it from the dash loom of a car in the scrappies, put a pin in the interior side and then a pin in the exterior side. It's actually...