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my bet is 15x6". the megane MKII uses 15x6,5" steel rims (poverty spec equipment level) and 195/65 r15 tyres so I'd say the clio has a 6" rim
no clue about the ET though. closer to 45 at a guess
the guy that fitted mine had cut the OE system. a lot easier, took him 1 hour to get the milltek fitted (even less if you remove the time spent to undo the rusted bolts etc)
can you give a hint? I'm quite far from your ramp tbh :D i'm getting some occasional full lock knock (am running k-tec top mounts, new wishbones, poly bushes, new shocks etc) and who knows I may have a faulty driveshaft
thx!
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194769- tyre in this link is on my spare wheel (I bought the car like that) and indeed it says "pilot exalto" on it. it may be the first exalto model
http://www.2dayparts.com/michelin-pi...0r-14-82h-rrb
^ this one is different though - it has 4...
the milltek looks like this:
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z273/rippttor/Photo0069.jpg
P.S:can't upload photo, keep getting this message : Exceeds your quota by 69.3 KB. <a href="misc.php?do=attachments" target="_blank">Click here to view your attachments</a>
pic is not larger than it...
bump on this thread for another one:
I've finally managed to have my tail pipes sit proper in the bumper cuts but when the exhaust gets hot the left tip goes off center. this is right after doing the 2,5" cat mod. maybe the previous joint helped the exhaust to move a bit when expanded from...
battery is ok, changed it 2 years ago. up and down revving only happens when pressing the brake pedal 2-3 times when in neutral. it's like pressing both brake and accel pedal at once. not having a messy idle to be clear.
first lambda will be changed soon though as I'm having some mpg issues
hammerite is what you need. many used this and it's great quality paint. wire brush on the calipers, degreaser, one coat of paint, 2 hours later the second coat, 4 hours later you're done
as I can remember a good and close to std setup would be:
front toe: 1mm out
rear: 1mm in
camber: ~.30 negative on the front
~ 1,4-1,5 negative rear
you could go up to 1,5 neg in the front without excessive wear (using camber bolts or adjustable top mounts like the AST ones)
hope that helps
v12 is a good all rounder at a good price (something like the PE2)
rs-2 is more track focused, a softer compound, stiffer sidewalls, orientated towards dry grip. increased wear rate obviously
^ if you like smth more street like and prefer the low profile tyre look
or this ^ if you're planing some track days and want cheap tyres
I'd have both tbh, ultras with summer tyres and street driving and 2118's for winter tyres and trackdays
back on this problem again.. It looks like the revvin thing is not entirely gone as I thought. It still does it when the engine is cold and while on the move (standing still in neutral with engine on and pressing the brake pedal nothing happens). let's say driving at 30 mph in 3rd, then going in...
don't really wanna leave the rest inside. one of mine snapped inside (hence the removal of my cover) and couldn't get the damn thing out (tried to drill through what was left of it but no success)
exhaust (if you say not too raspy) - milltek, scorpion rs 192 (milltek can be bought from k-tec and delivered to your door)
induction: depends on your budget and if you want the noise. panel filter or v6 airbox give the best results mainly. If you really want the noise and something to look good...
I packed mine with general purpose black silicone the other day (heat resistant up to 120 degrees-which seemed enough) an finally the tailpipes sit properly when engine cold at least.. once exhaust gets hot the left one gets off-center a bit but I'm not too bugged about that
pic showing when...
depends mostly on what you want really. my car is a daily driver mainly and I knew from the start that I wanted solid mounts. I didn't worried about vibrations and if you do then maybe you should go for new std mounts plus powerflex dog bone