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Probably: Thruxton Combe Donnington Oulton Dates, locations and money causing me trouble for any others. Combe and Thruxton are nice and local for me even though they're not really suited to my under powered clio. Snetterton and Cadwell are difficult logistically due to distance. Would do...

I don't think you could actually remove that much from the cage and still keep it FIA. You have to have at least a diagonal in the backstays and you have to have a cross in the main hoop I think. You could remove more to just do MSA events. Looks good James and coming along nicely. You doing...

You going to pop down?

You'll crack 130 I'd have thought Tony.

I just thinking the same about Thruxton. Found this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb_zMVii3vw Two chicanes and a feather, flat apart from that.

I've got mine in the centre vents.

The cover goes under the lip of the pulley so won't lift off with the pulley there. Big hex bit to remove that.

Have you thought about doing the cambelt yourself phil? You seem fairly handy with a spanner. It is fairly straight forward if you follow the manual.

Can do either, as a unit is easiest. See G172 on here or Renault.

At least you've nearly completely rebuilt it so hopefully that'll be the last little surprise for you!

I'll embed the images for you,some higher res ones would be good.

My 172 never used any, my 182 on much lower mileage uses 1l per 3k miles and has done for the last 60k. They vary.

A ph1 bare engine will go in a ph2, the DBW TB and inlet manifold will bolt on just the same. 182 has different breather plate.

Probably shocks.

I wrote some of the software, should be awesome ;-)

lol

I had a welded diff in my grass track car, rear wheel drive though. I wouldn't have thought it'd work very well on tarmac. And I can't see how it could possibly allow one wheel to turn without the other, you are essentially welding the two ends of the driveshafts together.

Yeah that's how mine works too.

Found these that show the return spring. If you cable tie it up like in the last pic you'll have to much effort to the rears. My rears have locked under moderate braking with it cable tied up.

It should have a little return spring, that looks to have been removed from yours. If you fix it up with cable ties or similar it will be on max effort to rears. I'll dig out a pic later if you're still non the wiser.

The bar is removed from factory so the rear bias is always at minimum no matter the load.

That is what mine looks like, minus the bar. I bet someone has had it replaced thinking it was missing the bar.

Nice starts. Thruxton is only 30 miles from me :) Fast circuit though isn't it?

I saw this this morning and thought of you guys.

I guess there is a fear factor about the new MoT rules at the moment that means they can get away with a high than usual, how do you put it Chip, ktec tax lol.

That is what it is aimed at though. Some people just want the easy fit and no warning lights.

What does that mean lol? Read only?

Did they say if it comes with the kit at no extra cost or not?

Some one did recently manage to find the correct part number and got new cup ones.

I thought the ATs did something different that meant they didn't need the same diameter to flow as much as a similar jenvey setup?