Search results

Not definitive but I had a quick look through Hoofy's thread as I remembered he had a non cup ph2 and had done some subframe mods. I found a pic that shows the subframe wishbone mounting holes and they look more like the ph1 holes in my pics. Difficult to be sure though. Scroll down to the 3rd...

My 172 cup versus a ph1 172 subframe. I guess they could be like that on all ph2s? http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?659166-172-cup-track-rod-ends&p=9121769&viewfull=1#post9121769

The holes in the subframe that the wishbones bolts to on the 172 cup are further out. So different subframe, hence the longer driveshafts and and track rods.

I used part worn for years on my 205 GTI and other cars without any problems when I couldn't afford any better. These days I buy decent tyres though.

Renault have a procedure to activate the abs pump while bleeding to get the air out of it you might need to find someone with a clip to do that.

ktec were cheaper last time I got one, was a while ago. There is someone on here who gets renault parts cheap too, I would have tried him if I knew about him. His name escapes me lol.

The 172 cup front hub is the same as all other 172s and non cup packed 182s as well. Only 182 cup/cup pack have different front hubs. Won't make any difference if it has the sensors or not.

I really enjoy doing the wiring for some reason lol. At least this way you'll know it backwards when you have issues ;) Does that mean I have longer to decide on a diff then... must resist :evil:

They're easy to remove, just unbolt and unplug.

Looking good, when are you planning to have it running? How did you get that rad in there with the PAS pipe? Looking at mine the pipe where it comes out of the pump would foul the radiator.

Chip, what do you use for the diameter of the wheel/tyre? Just (wheel dia + 2x profile) with profile being taken from the width and profile of the tyre size e.g. for 205/50 15 = 58.6 cm. Just wondering if you account for tyre deformation or true profile rather than tyre size. Thanks

If you look in the forsale section I think you'll find 500 a bit on the steep side. I'd say 3-350 with new belts and receipts to prove + other history.

The carbon canister is underneath the drivers side headlight. When it is making the noise get your ear down by the front bumper just in front of the drivers side front wheel. Not in the engine bay. It can be unplugged. It will flag a fault but won't put the EM light on. They can be replaced...

m6 bolts.

10w40 is fine, the first number is just viscosity at 0 deg C, 10 is still fine. I would try disconnecting the carbon canister, sometimes it can make noise too.

This is so true. Once you start to know things you will start to realise how must BS comes out of your average garage.

If you want to do it on the cheap you have to get spannering. Setup ebay searches for things you're looking for etc. I'm totally self taught. Just get your spanners out and start fiddling to build up your confidence. As Sir_Dave said earlier, they're no different to lego really. You're bound...

Looking forward to seeing this go back together now. Great work as always.

Something else to complicate your decision. I have sportline 1s with 80/70 N/mm springs, which I think is softer than the Burpseed car and I wouldn't want to do a road trip round europe in it. I still drive to quite a few tracks days and non race events but certain bumps are painful lol.

A whiteline ARB might help you stiffen up the rear a bit, assuming you don't have one already?

I would check the earth straps. Start with the battery to body one. There are two from the gearbox to body, don't really see why it'd be one of those. There are then some wires under the dash that are screwed into the metal dash framework. You'd need to remove the dash top for those.

172 cup hub is the same as all other 172s and non cup packed 182s. Only 182 cup and 182 with cup pack have a different front hub.

The 172 cup drive shafts and tie rods are longer than the non cup 172 ones. About 10mm for the drive shafts and 15mm for the tie rods. The longer items are Renault only. Might make things easier for you.

So with bodies and mild cams say 428/421 territory. Should you switch to verniers or keep the dephaser? As far as I can see verniers allow easier adjustment of the cam timing and would not fail like a dephaser. But you lose the flexibility of adjusting the cam timing when the engine is...

Happy birthday. You two have a lot to answer for :D

You should use high tensile steel bolts. 12.9 is preferred IIRC.

Best I can do... so far ;) 2.5 wheels.

Do you have a heat shield between the manifold and the bulk head still?

I just cut the glue with a stanley knife blade while gently pulling the liner down, came out easy enough.

They don't look like cup ones. On the cup ones the outer hole for the ball joint is nearer the front of the wish bone.