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182 cup and 182 with cup packs have a different hub from the rest of the 1*2s.

I have the same one and you will need to remove it. In fact I even had to unbolt the steering column at the top IIRC. I left the blower/heater unit in but that was all.

And I've just been out to look at my 182 with cup packs and the wishbone looks the same as the 172 cup i.e. it has the extra caster from the different ball joint position.

Some pics. These bits are my 172 cup compared to a 172 ph1 subframe and track rod I have lying about. Track rod about 15mm longer on cup. Subframe wishbone mounting hole about 10mm further out on cup.

Yes I think so. I'll try and remember to measure it this evening.

The 172 cup tie rods are about 20mm longer, the track rod ends are the same. They are about 40mm into the track rod end though so even the shorter tie rods would still be about 20mm inside the TRE. I would have thought the 182 cup/cup pack would have the same longer tie rods and also the bottom...

I seem to remember the 182 stub axle is the thickest. James (BIGASH) had some info about it in his thread.

Only if they don't re-seat correctly on landing ;) Your compensator valve should make a difference when moved manually. On my 172 cup with the compensator in the std position you can just turn the rear wheels by hand but not easily. With the compensator held up with cable ties the rear effort...

Sorry I meant to quote Ed to ask what material the quote was for. I think different 1*2s have different stub axle thickness. You'd be best to get under your car and measure how much of the bolts are sticking out with you current setup.

Would people recommend the Jenvey/Ktec DTH solution over the older Jenvey manifold + generic bodies?

I've painted cars in the past and prep is a total ball ache, I just don't have the patience. I've already decided I'll be wrapping rather than painting if needed in future.

Made from what?

How much weight do you reckon dipping will save James?

You can put metal plates between the stub axle and the arm, just like the shims as you say. There is quite a bit of thread left on the bolts but the different 1*2 models have different thickness stub axles as std. Technically there'd be less load on the wheel bearing. Ordinary spacers would be...

I haven't got around to looking yet :o Will probably have a look next week some time.

I'd get them welded mine popped out well before they got any where near a track.

No needed really. The air bag switch is in the sill.

Nuts would be no different, you may need longer wheel bolts/studs though? The spacer normally comes with everything to fit it.

172 cup is the same

Refurb kit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271080798171

Congratulations guys. You going to the awards night to collect your trophy?

I had a similar problem and cured it by running a tap down the thread - they were just full of 10 years of crap. Could be loads of things though.

When I looked I could only find it in the sprint section, I could still have missed it in one of the other sections.

Actually just checked and that wheelbase restriction is for sprinting only no mention of it for circuit racing.

Bluebook says up to 25mm spacers are ok and IIRC I think the lesser of 2.5% or 5cm wheel base increase is permitted.

Where James is at now and the number of mods he is planning you could easily be right. Clios are cheap to get compliant with the safety regs but expensive to get competitive. To the OP I'd say based on your experience don't discount other types of motorsport e.g. autosolos, sprinting, hill...

I can say that it is definitely a lot of fun. Although I'm not likely to win anything any time soon being at the slow end of class A means I have lots of fun mixing it with the lower class cars and other cars of similar spec in my class.

Tin tops regs are deliberately vague I think, just original silouette, engine, gearbox and induction type. Although blue book does say things like "just because it doesn't say you can't doesn't mean you can". I'm pretty sure the Track Day Trophy wouldn't allow it. I remember when I was...

Buying ready built is the cheapest route or probably even cheaper a 90% complete car that someone has lost interest in. It needs to comply with http://www.msauk.org/site/cms/contentviewarticle.asp?article=1122 in particular sections J, K and Q. Basically the minimum you need is a 6 point cage...

Yes saloon car biased over single seater.