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I'm with Phil on this. ​

Top mounts look much better ;)

Nice vids, looks like some good racing. ​

It'll be out and about soon enough ;) Temporarily back to standard power lol.

Re: sonny172cup "track racer project" Looking good. ​I've seen others lower the column like that by even more so I guess it'll be fine.

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Did it not come with instructions/circuit diagram? It needs to cut the main battery +ve feed, the ignition and then earth the alternator through that resistor. Something like that any way. Go on the manufacturers website and see if there are instructions for it. Failing that try googling FIA...

Nice work Tony, looks like you had fun. ​

You pay for your car, that's what you agree to when you sign up. ​

It doesn't really matter like in this case like Swede says. Don't think I've ever done it in any particular order on my 1*2s and never had any problems - if you have abs just don't let the level run low as it is difficult to get air out of the abs circuit. ​

lol it will still leak afterwards and you won't be losing litres from there. ​

I use a 150A mega fuse.

No smoke or residue on bumper. Inside the tail pipe it is black with carbon but not oily.

Mine has always used 1l every 3k miles. It used to pool on the manifold alot, but I fixed that and it made no difference to the consumption. ​

Once you've bought all those gauges plus accessories aren't you going to be approaching dash 2 territory anyway? Maybe not lol.

Trust Tony to come up with the pics lol

I'm sure I remember Fred saying it mostly works. I have used a spare rocker cover to cut holes in to look at dialing in cams and that worked fine. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?604558-182-head-on-a-172-bottom-end&p=8096161&viewfull=1#post8096161

They don't come with bolts so they don't actually look that cheap when you add some ARP bolts in. The ktec and ed ones do come with ARP bolts. ​

My 182 has used a litre every 3k miles since I got it at 40k, now at 106k. My race car hardly used any when racing after 139k road miles. ​

The part numbers are in Phil's thread somewhere... http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?687703-EPAS-on-172-Cup

Pete has had some serious plastic surgery lol. Edit: beat me to it! ​

What make are they? ​

ph1 are shorter and are also available from ECP etc. ​The problem was they didn't list a part for cup/cup packed cars

Second test? My BARS test was like your first ARDS: tester: I think there are some dodgy questions in here and it's just a license for them to print money, so after you've watched the video we'll have a little chat then you can fill out the test ;)

lol I was planning on coming along but a quick oil change turned into a nightmare when I dropped the sump plug into the waste oil tank it blocked the drain hole and I ended up having to clean 3 litres of oil of my drive :(

The ECU, UCH and chip in the key are all locked together. You may also need a 172 cup one due to the different configuration e.g. no ABS, side air bags, ESP, etc. Are you going to try swapping the ECU before you ditch the loom?

The back stays on mine are above the rear springs. I know on the older OMP one like Tony's they go the the arches.

​That must be proper quick then!

It depends if you're allowed to cut it. The main hoop clearance is very small so I'd say you would not get the head lining or original seat belts back in. You could get the head lining in by cutting it. Seat belts no chance as there is just not enough clearance on the B pillars. At the front...

That is how they leave the factory.