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That is the latest model OMP cage same as I have in my racing car. The only mod is the harness bar. The rear feet go to the suspension pick ups on the floor. There is more strength there than the arches.

Have you thought about getting a head that hasn't been skimmed so much? Might be cheaper than going down the conversion route. I can't remember the racing regs on fuel either, might be worth checking before you do the conversion if you want to go racing.

Re: CLIO IV RS for 2013, Last news - NEW DETAILS #1779 Totally agree with you Mark. I went down the local dealer to take a look and it looks much better in the flesh, The close up front pictures just don't do it justice, I wondered if it is a wide angle lens thing? Looks much smaller in the...

I've re-used those ones for short periods when trying things out and not had any problems...

I don't think you'll get them anywhere else. There is a kit that has new dephaser bolt, plus seals at both ends. I did get a new solenoid seal separately but it leaked again immediately so I've never bothered since. The amount you must have spent on your build I'd just buy the tools lol.

Are you sure it's not just coming out of the bolt holes? I'd try taking them out one at a time and sticking some sealant under them. Worked on my 182 that had oil pooled on top of the inlet manifold. I see what you're saying with leaving the pulleys on the cams and just using the horse shoe...

You'll need some sort of fire wall for reg compliance, I think. What you going to race it in then Mark?

The 172 cup specific renault pdf I have says says -1 deg 30' +/- 20' rear and -0 deg 30' +/- 30' front as standard. Or in layman's terms -1.5 deg rear and -0.5 deg front. I have a print out from my geo setup somewhere I'll root it out. Just looked through some other pdfs. All 1*2s have -1.5...

Congrats. When you hoping to have it finished then?

I had AD08 on at the last Burpspeed Llandow day and that was like a monsoon. I'd say I had more grip than most. I have some R1R but I've not used them yet. I'd expect them to give better lap times than AD08s but not as good as 888s and similar.

It is sprayed towards the butterfly. Even when at idle there will still be some vacuum there to suck the fuel in. The mapping will only inject the correct amount of fuel for a given load/throttle/rpm etc. There is probably a second set of injectors in the normal place that would be used at...

You can do that on a dyno - hold it at a certain rpm and open throttle, change mapping, etc.

Having the injectors further back allows better mixing of fuel and air so a bit more power - that won't get you to 279bhp though. Having seen this link discussed on here before people were sceptical. Probably possible with enough money thrown at it though...

My 52 plate (October 02) cup has increased caster ones. I think they (172 cups) came out October 2002.

Myself I've noticed a rise in their reported figures over the last year or 2. Especially for the cams and ik packages. They've only had the superflow a year or 2 so maybe that is why? They had a DD RR when I went there in late 2010.

Get under and get someone to press the pedal with your cable ties removed. If yours doesn't move it is seized. The link to the rear beam when the unit is fitted to other models is via a spring again. The bar goes through the hole in the lever and there is a spring over the bar. This resists the...

When you press the brake pedal a little piston in the bias valve pushes down on the lever. If the lever can't move the full pressure goes to the rear calipers. That little spring is just a return spring for the lever. So by cable tieing the lever up you get max effort to the rears where as...

You found some "can be f**ked" then ;)

IIRC it was greasy but it was only approaching a set of lights that went yellow on me, wasn't going fast or braking hard. James (BIGASH) had problems last year with his - although it was probably down to the aggressive pads. My rear discs are spotless without it clamped up, which is minimum...

I think the ASTs are ok. Track Day Trophy has the same reg and I queried it specifically for the rear AST coilover, they said it was fine. I think it means as Morgan says, i.e. you have to keep the rear beam with the original mounting points to the chassis.

Just remove the fuel rail guard and look for the large R and S that are part of the lower manifold casting.

One guy failed when I did mine. He was the one who after the "only give it 70% briefing" said "can we race if we want to though". Turned out he'd never driven on track before and didn't have a clu lol.

Couple of hours all together, mostly just sitting about though. We all did the test together - think they gave us 20 minutes, but that is loads of time. Then we sat about while the instructors took us out. I think the driving was 5 laps with him telling me what to do and then 5 laps of me...

Better than 165 for 55 minutes at Thruxton then lol.

For the ARDS like Pete says just read the questions and know all the flags in the blue book section Q (racing) as you have to get 100% on that bit.

That's not how it supposed to be though phil. You now have more rear effort than renault intended - I have locked the rears on mine with it cable tied up like that. I do it for the MoT just to avoid the hassle of explaining it to the garage but I remove it afterwards.

Matching the lower inlet to the head is where the big mis-match is. Are ktec just talking about matching plenum to lower inlet?

Given up on the clio? http://www.blmra.co.uk/

Keevil is another one, not much better than Combe or Hullavgton distance wise though.

One shorter is the correct fitment but 21/21 also fits just fine, it is just not required.