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Jack each corner, wiggle the wheel in and out at various point..
Around 12 and 6 for bearings and bottom ball joints.
9 and 3 o'clock for track rods.
Shazam
If you take the head off for work, would you refit all the old belts, pulleys, dephaser etc and risk the head??
If not it'll be £300-400 before you even get to the head..
They do want the earth to cover one.. I insured a 30k+ porker for £360 f/c and everyone else was getting quotes of around £450 for a £2000 Clio 182.. Chuckle..
There's some insurers on here somewhere that do fair prices, but I haven't needed them..
You can get lucky and find one for £1500-2000 in good shape and not needing belts..
At 1000-1400, you'll be looking at belts and a few problems and that'll cost the difference..
Every rattles on about the belts, but it's a deal breaker, they're around £500-600 mark and because you'll need...
Hunt down and email the head office/Md, say what branch it was and that they fobbed you off.. Tell them that you paid for it to be filled and checked and they turned you over..
You don't have to explain you've fixed the leak, just say you want them to do the job again and do it correctly...
Take it to halfords and tell them to do it for free.. I believe part of the service is to check it for leaks, partly because it's illegal to let it vent into the air, therefore them not checking the pressure holds is surely.....fking stupid..
You again..
These cars always sag at that point, but it's not just sagging straight down, it's partly twisting from the rear.. You need to take the strain off the back box, then the 2 Middle sections and clamp the fker back up...
What you really need is a to do is make a new hanger at that...
At any mileage... There is no longer any saving in diesels.. Mines trashed me for £1200 in less than 8000 miles, does no more than 45mpg and is currently on the drive with no fuel tank as its drawing in air to the lines.. Another £200
I've been trawling the internet finding nothing but more...
The Clio 172-182 isn't a very problematic car and there isn't anything I'd say has a high failure rate..
It's more your tyres, clutch, cambelt interval, brakes, exhaust condition etc that need checking when your looking..
Normal stuff.
Avoid all new diesels from 2004, the emission laws and changes to the engines are completely fking up anything that made them value for money..
Dpf problems are a daily problem for all brands, then there's dmfs, egr's, engines getting blocked with sh1t and that's not including the normal £1000...
Years ago head work was all the rage on here and angel tuning? Was waxing lyrical about head work like there's no tomorrow.. It seems all that the guys mad for it have left as no one cares anymore, or got wise.
I've seen many a guy have his head worked on and I'm not talking about p**n... Perhaps it's because I'm into head gasket blowing Renault 5's, but when the heads warp, crack, get smashed by a dropped valve, all that hard work and money's gone up in smoke..
With a turbo set up, you can rebuilt...
The problem is on a N/A car, one mod alone doesn't do a lot, you need everything and a propper map to really get the full performance from each upgrade...
At that point you'll have an engine in the classifieds for £2700 and everyone will laugh and think I can get a whole car for that, or 12...
Crack it off while it's on the ground, or jam a screw driver in the brake disc and it'll lock it off while you give it some whammy..
Worst bits the bottom ball joint, a lever bar, crow bar sorts it.
Don't hit the track rod end to free it, whack the side of it (the hub) to shock it free.
Shazam
I think these are like my gtt ones, with the sliding lock with pin and the springs?
My slider was rusted, worn pitted and the spring had no life in them, no sooner had I put the pads in I could wiggle them back out effortlessly..
I got a new fitting kit, problem solved.
I drive it for 6 months if I had too.. You've paid you insurance, you should be covered..
Bash for cash I hate, but i couldn't hate anyone for being cheeky in this case.. It's fair..