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Totally agree with that, wet = more fun in slower conditions.
I didn't do any timing on the day but from the video i've calculated i was doing around 1.58 - 2.05's, in the dry i can knock a lot of time of that. I'm sure I was closer to 1.30 last year in the dry.
i sussed heal and toe-ing in the M3 and 330 but i find it really awkward in the clio, not sure if it's because my legs are bent too much as the steering wheel can be adjusted for reach. The pedal alignments don't seem to have been designed for a 6'3'' bloke lol. When I did the National licence I...
no one all day went past me on merit - i was always either on a warm up lap or a warm down.
There were a couple of time attack Evo's, one pushing out 700+ BHP that wearnt trying that hard in the corners (left m e for dead on the straight but I caught them back up when a bend was imminent)
yep i remember these from the cliotrophy post.
And my vid is both greater than 10 mins and larger than 100mb :( (1.2 GB) HD camcorders do have their draw backs.
will split it.
SO you have lots of experience of driving with solid top mounts on UK roads?
ever hit a pothole with the connection between the strut and chassis being metal and not rubber?
have you ever run solid top mounts on UK roads?
I do, mine is not a think or maybe senario. The banging and crashing is from the suspension. You switch from a rubber to a solid metal and you get a harsher but more controlled ride.
yeh but they got better after running them for a while. Still the same set and have got 5 more days out of them..... Cadwell will be there last outing before the replacements go on.... if it doesn't rain.:hail:
you wont need ZR's unless you're planning on driving off a cliff and hoping the land it on the wheels lol. No way are you hitting 150mph+, the clio would need around another 50-70 bhp to hit 150+
205/50 or 195/50's - doesn't make a whole lot of difference to be honest. 55's on 15's give a...
similar length to what i did at FCS last year - i couldn't be bothered changing the wheels so ran normal road tyres. Just don't give it the full beans.
sorry to drag up an old thread... JamesS, very interesting. You seem to know your mustard.
I found the storage info very interesting. I never knew this about the R888, and yes i've left mine in a shed over winter - covered and it's dry but i've experienced this cracking.
I'm hoping a good few...
but they're ad states a power increase. My point is actually the same as yours - unless they have a like for like comparison they shouldn't advertise it as a power increase.
either way i'd expect 5-6 tops like you say. The weight saving will actually have a greater effect on the performance...
get the tyres up to temp, then lower them back to around the 30-33 psi mark. go for a 5 lap run and see if they increase further, if they do reduce them again.
remember to pump them up again at the end for the drive home.
mine was neg 1.0. don't know if this just the trophy or other rs models also.
the toe was 0.0 - completely neutral.
you'll need aftermarket camber bolts to hit 2 degrees of negative camber.
you'll get sidewall wear regardless, if you're gunning it on track you'll find tyres pressures going up around 20 psi. Higher pressure = higher temp.
the tyres are meant to run at sub 45 psi iirc, reducing the psi would have taken them to around say 22 psi when cold but optimal when warm.
This...