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Bit of a thread bump... but sure I saw this car coming off at Junction 22 of the M1 a few weeks back... would have been around 5:30-6pm?

Bump :up:

Cheers @Davyy, hopefully Budgie will drop by :up:

Hi all, I'm trying to replace the upper cambelt cover on my Trophy (threads have been damaged previously and seemed easier/cheaper to just replace the part). I have removed all of the nuts and bolts holding the cover to the engine and it's loose, but the bracket going to the alternator is in...

The rubber mallet's your problem mate, use a hammer. I'd recommend screwing the nuts back on first thought to avoid causing any damage to the end of the bolts.

Yes it was Wednesday evening mate. I didn't come across the silver E46 whilst out on track, but I did see him/her have a near miss through Hall Bends.

So last week I headed over to Cadwell in the Trophy. It was my first time on track and I had a great time. The trophy felt incredible on the new suspension and performed without fault the whole evening... unfortunately the driver still needs some work :up: Anyway, I thought I'd share a few...

You can get away with just replacing the upper cambelt cover in that case - shouldn't be any more than £10 - £15 off a breaker.

Have you checked the slider pins aren't seized?

You need to remove the standard shims from the carrier if you haven't already. Once the pad is in the carrier, make sure there's at least 1mm of vertical movement (you'll just need to file a small amount off the tabs at the top and bottom of the pad).

Are you doing it off the car? If so - I did mine that way using mole grips. Takes no more than 30 seconds per bush! I use two mole grips. A larger one to pull the clamp towards the subframe and then a smaller one to the side of the bolt hole to hold it in place. Once held in place I then...

Hi all, my Trophy has been off the road, stored in my garage for the last 2 years. It will be back on the road within the next few weeks hopefully (I've booked a track day at Cadwell to push me into getting it sorted), but before it goes for its MOT, I wanted to get it back to its former glory...

Remove the shims (if you haven't already) and file the tabs at each side of the pads to allow a small amount of vertical movement once in the carrier.

Impressive collection of cars you've had / have @mossyv6! Not jealous at all... lol! :up::up:

Not sure there's a guide on how to change them, but it's fairly straight forward to be honest. Jack the front of the car up, remove both wheels, remove the track rod ends, remove the gaiters from the steering rack, slide the tie rod tool over the inner tie rod, attach ratchet/breaker bar to...

The 'restriction' at the rear of the cat was deliberate to reduce noise and retain heat. I had it removed and sleeved, but only as I had problems with the original join leaking and this seemed the best solution. I wouldn't say I noticed any difference in terms of power / drivability though.

Hi all, sorry for the late response, I haven't had chance to get out in the garage until today and try out some of your suggestions (which are all greatly appreciated). I've spent some time removing the slam panel and both catches to clean/grease them up and refit. Everything is working as you...

Well I managed to borrow a spare catch off a friend, but it's still the same unfortunately. Really strange. I tried adjusting the bonnet via the plastic adjusters on each side of the slam panel, which has made a slight improvement, but I think this is really just masking the issue. Anybody...

Thanks all for your help. I didn't think it was right but thought I'd check here before taking anything apart. I wonder if the catch has seized with it having stood for a while...

Hi all, My Trophy has been off the road for a while and I've had the bumper off during this time. I've just refitted it and noticed the bonnet can be pushed down a bit when closed, rather than being fixed in one position. I hope this makes sense but if not I can put a video up. Is this normal...

Have a search mate - Toyosport have an awful reputation. It's cheap crap. If I was you I'd find a decent exhaust place and see what they can do or replace with OEM parts. Changing the manifold is quite labour intensive on these cars so the last thing you want to do is have something fitted...

You could pay a visit to Birchdown, they're a Renault specialist and right on your doorstep, being based in Cheshire too. http://www.birchdown.com/index.html Not sure whether or not they have CLIP, but if they can't help, I'm sure they'll be able to point you in the right direction. Failing...

It's really not that bad, but you need a good quality set of flare nut spanners IMO, otherwise you will round something off. I really rate the Facom ones, which I liked to above, for the money. :up:

Ah sorry to hear that mate!! So frustrating but hopefully easily sorted. I have a set of Facom flanged flare nut spanners, well worth having for jobs like this...

Bled my brakes using the MityVac kit. Very impressed with it, made bleeding the brakes so simple and the pedal feels great now.

Yes, in theory, it's as simple as that. Just be careful you don't round anything off (easily done with seized brake lines).

For what it costs, just replace the full kit, it will only be an extra £40-£50. At least then you have the peace of mind everything is in good working order.

What have you had done mate?

Does it need to be a new one? I had to replace one of mine, so I just bought one off here second-hand, then had it powder coated and a new bearing pressed in. Although I'm quite surprised by the price for a new one from Renault, it's not cheap admittedly, but I would expect them to be silly money!

That looks great mate - exactly what I'll be going for when I send my wheel off to Snappy. They do look much better without the centre band.