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I thought the wider track on 172 Cup and 182 FF cars was due to the different offset wheels. 172, 182 & 172 Cup all have 54mm shock bolt spacing,182 FF have 60mm, if I understand correctly.

Looks to me like the hanger on the ECP one may still sit correctly in the mount, but just from the front rather than the rear? Your pic doesn’t show the bit that joins the centre section, so can’t really offer a view on that I’m afraid.

I panicked when I first got my car, I had a crunch changing into 4th which turned out to be me being lazy and not depressing the clutch enough (it is a bit heavy tbf :tonguewink:), and the box kind of whirred in 4th gear. 2 years, 12k miles, and 6 or 7 track days and it's still going strong...

Thanks! But sadly it was out of stock, so I put the old stuff back in that I salvaged just to make sure all was ok. I’ve just today got some Redline MTL from Opie Oils, which is a decent price with ‘CLIOSPORT’ discount :cool:.

Have you seen this one? Popped up on Clio197.net, but advertised on eBay.... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323178061869 I too have a thing for a 200, I think it’s just the way they look and their stance, they’re relatively rare too, at least...

But did you surprise the Macan? :smile:

No, I bought it originally because it was cheap, and to ensure I could put my car back together in one hit. Didn’t work out that way :smile:. Perhaps they’re gonna surprise you with a refund instead 🙈.

Just to update this thread..... I cleaned up the old shaft, bought a cheap boot kit from ECP, whacked it all back together, took it for a drive and the difference is shocking, it’s so smooth, no wobbles/vibrations, nothing, it’s mint! And that’s without the balancing weight that I took off...

Try what @Ianboom said above, put the resistors in the loom connector at the back of the clocks. Worth checking the connector is pushed in properly first?

I use Autoglym wheel spray sealant for ease and speed, then a couple of coats of FK1000P. Then wash them as soon as I can when I get home. Done 3 or 4 track days on current wheels and they’re still in good shape.

Do you mean where else can they be bought? There's the option of Shaftec I believe, RPD & KTEC? Don't know who manufactures them though, or if they're any better. I'd welcome some recommendations :cool:. LOL! (Perhaps they should test them on a car at 40 - 70 mph? :wink:)

Not much hope is there :smile:! I knew I was taking a risk, truth be told, and I didn’t read the terms/conditions. Lesson learnt. Being a cheapskate doesn’t always pay off :tongueclosed:.

Is it a vibration you can hear (in the sense that you say it’s not a heat shield), or a vibration you can feel? When I put my dodgy J&R driveshaft on recently, I noticed the balancing weight had slipped on the old one -> could be the cause? Obviously this would be a ‘feely’ vibration rather...

:laughing:

You'll need the engine running at 2-2500 rpm for 15 mins or so to get the fan to kick in, I found this out when I did a coolant change. Where is the stream of bubbles coming from? Is it coolant running back through the top hose of the expansion tank creating bubbles? Mine does this when hot...

I didn’t. But did you mean me?

Yeah, that makes sense. If the shaft is too long, loosening the nut wont make much difference.

Tidy! Thanks :cool:

Can you link, I’m not doing well finding it 🙈! Thanks!

Perhaps my vibration seems worse or different to yours @Gandi69 because I’m running Powerflex black series mounts all round, as well as solid top mounts -> the cabin vibration is pretty shocking when just idling 😧:smile:. So the new problem created by the shaft is just being amplified...

Interesting....can the shaft be modified if this is the case though?

Just camber bolts on cup shocks....

Definitely the outer, not checked inner in any detail, but I imagine it’s ok because I had a full compliment of oil because I had to put it all back in after I pi$$ed the new stuff on the drive :laughing:.

Well, if the boots fit (so they say :smile:) I’ll wear them! If they last me a couple of years I’ll be happy!

I did feel resistance at the same place in each revolution, I even removed the brake pads to make sure they weren’t binding. It didn’t feel like a wheel wobble to me, the car was shaking and shuddering side to side, much worse on a right handed sweeping bend.

I emailed them first, and Lee replied with a standard spiel. So no discussion on cause as yet. Actually, could I have fitted it ‘wrong’? I’ve done it twice now!

I assume they would cover postage if it turns out to be faulty. So no :smile:!

Thanks again for the heads up. I wonder if there’s any point me sending it back, I’m unlikely to put up a big fight, I don’t have it in me to bother, maybe save the postage and move on.....perhaps a strongly worded email to annoy them :smile:.

J&R wants a mechanic’s report or the shaft sent back for analysis. Obviously the mechanic’s report isn’t on the cards, so I’ll send it back to them for them to tell me there’s nowt wrong with it :confused::smile:. So shall I put new boots on my existing one (they’re torn), and if so can someone...

Thanks for the info @Gandi69, I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. I have another issue because I bought my shafts before Christmas, not sure if that'll have a bearing...... Interesting that your clamp was on backwards too!