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Slacken off the bracket around the back box ( as seen in last pic )
Rotate / Adjust the bracket until box is in a better position
Then re tighten firm
That's how I done it anyway
Maybe a modified valver or Williams one
Cut to fit the 172 front ?
http://www.cliosport.net/threads/naples-mk1-track-car-project.450405/page-10
Few pics in there
epic job today decided that being a 15 year old clio meant that it will suffer from rust at some point, spurred on by the rust i found inside the rear arch the other day i decider to re-seal the whole underside of the car ( near enough anyway )
hopefully i wont be needing a re-shell anytime soon...
only thing between them is shore hardness of the rubber
Bushings are produced in one of three durometers – Yellow (70A, approximately 25% stiffer than stock), Purple (80A, approximately 30% stiffer than stock), and Black (95A, approximately 80% stiffer than stock)
all i need to do is remove the t piece fitted line and run a return in to the top (red arrow ) line from the rail, and for a supply line connect the lowest 90 bend on to the side of the filter
i have all the ph1 stuff already just needed to run a return, so i will go out and buy some fuel pipe...
so it goes green line/arrow down to back of filter (2nd pic )through filter to T piece upwards goes to red return and down does to fuel line
so its an easy fix, just had me confused for a while, looks like it may have been as i suggested, a mod from the good eggs in france
it looks as if it has been a 2 line system as per standard ph 1 but has been made to be a 1 line system( from factory maybe) when they fitted a ph2 system to later ph1 cars ??
so this is whats there now
so my understanding is green out from pump, through filter and down to fuel rail, so remove the t piece and connect it to the filter to create a single out line, and connect the bit at the top of filter (going to the red arrow on the sender ) to a return from the fuel...
that is brilliant thank you for the picture James helps clear that up
tbh i think i am going to half drop the tank,
so i can see how everything is routed up with the inline fuel filter, just to get a better understanding of whats going on
unless you have a pic of the standard ph1 set up
Do I need to do that on a ph1 sender with the 2 lines ( 1 green out and 1 red in ) ?
Only thing I am missing is the ph1 return line from rail to sender as far as I am aware, so just seeing if I can use the fuel line that used to connect to the carbon canister and attach it to the ph1 rail return
i have the ph1 pump and rail, but my car was one of the weird parts bin ones that had a ph2 rail and pump from factory, so have no return line so just seeing if i can use whats already there, hence seeing if i could use the carbon canister line as a return from the rail
bit more progress done today
now need to figure out the ph 1 fuel set up, does anyone know if i can use the carbon canister line as a return line? as it goes back to tank and when under pressure ( 3bar ) it should push it back to tank ?
i would be leaving a note on that plug or cutting it off tbh, if someone just happened to see it was unplugged and plugged it back in, bad things may happen
good power at low ish boost, what plugs do you have in there?
rare action shot
clearly taken with a potato straight after using the grinder^
drilled a few holes behind it to let the air out too, hopefully it should work fairly well
This is what I got back from them for anyone who is interested
Hi Chris,
The shipping fees by air mail(international priority service) is 50 Euro.
Yes, our LSD is fitted by pressure and can be secured with 2 steel balls and loctite, similar to what Quaife does.
We have 2 short...