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Also sorry for the hijack

ATA comes with pride in your work, as you know you have to be at the required standard to attain the qualification to begin with. Im the current senior BMW ATA panel tech and I've now moved into the office as workshop controller/estimator but I will keep doing the recert every 3 years aswell as...

I had one for 6 months through work, enjoyed every minute of it... Also had an M3 comp pack for 6 months mental power!

Anyone tried de Ironised water ir distilled?

So it's a chemical reaction basically between the Dtype and cheap red.

Try George at RTR? @George@RTR_Parts

Whilst your in there you might aswell check bottom ball joints and track rod ends, brakes all that good stuff

You dont need a shaft m8. Just the seal

If you were closer I would have come for a look but hastings is about 6hours drive!

Well if you are locking up surely it's either crap tyres or your brake pads are too keen? With mine I have fitted all new lines from proline with bias valve, cup MC and I overhauled the servo. Front brake were refurbished by Biggredcalipers so they are mint and rears I just gave a good service...

Knew that guy would know 👆

You sure that build up of crap isnt something like radseal?

Looking at your pictures it appears that way but have you looked topside of the gearbox to make sure it's not something leaking above and dropping off the box

Why you going back to standard m8 what's the problem you've got?

And Coops is about right 250 per panel aslong as there isnt any major damage to repair and it's just basic prep.

We refer to those bonnet dent in the trade as "wanker dents" some body pushing down on the bonnet to shut it rather than dropping it from 15/20cm to self shut. Your man @gally Is right your bumper and bonnet ideally want to be back to bare plastic and metal. Bonnet dents want ruffing out whilst...

Also there is no gaiter, that's known as the dry side as you can remove the shaft without dropping the gearbox oil

Man that's sucks, it's going to be gearbox out more than likely, on the way home did it crunch into any gears 2nd n 3rd are the usual ones. Maybe @NorthloopCup can shine some light on the extent of work required to change the seal?

For the worse for petrol heads

"Dont cut" 😖 Front bumper corner missing

All those expensive aero parts aswell now

I get it. N.a. is a b*****d to squeeze power and then becomes highly strung and prone to breakage

It's the noise!!!!!

I know which I would rather have guys

But, when you look back....

Buy some solid ones, they always rattle no matter how new they are lol

Hmmm, my 182 is 200bhp and 170ftlbs wonder how close they would be in a drag race?

No I mean this new one, it's a 1.3 isnt it?

Rule of thumb is you should change any nuts and bolt that you remove from suspension components. Make sure you torque your pinch bolts correctly aswell as they are only a small bolt and snap easily if over tightened

I cant see how such a small engine is going to lug the bulky clio around and still look entertaining, what's the torque figures on these new engines? They've basically gone backwards 15 years to the 182