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Hi all, Looking to get back into the rs scene, had a 182 a few yeara ago that was unfortunately written off by a Zafira with anger management issues! Considering a ph1, but concerned about rust! Where are the common spots and, is it a major issue on these? Is any of it hidden? Cheers all.

Yep, this was mine and was Wests before me. Was on 118k and the engine DRANK oil but had new belts recently at Diamond. Powerflex bushes, new brembo discs new calipers, HEL brakelines, superblue, RS tuner 98 ron map... shame really. Bodywork was terrible though... yes I am aware it is now a LOT...

Sorry to hear this mate, seems you cant have anything nice these days without always looking over your shoulder for these scumbags! Hope you get as 'good' a result as you can from it.

Jesus, didnt expect that. Glad your OK (to an extent!), its cliche but cars can be replaced.

Yes mate!

The SERV light isnt a service light, it means theres a fault code.

Gloss black?

Stick with Kenwood/Pioneer and Alpine, get used stuff if you want the most for your money.

Is that the SX kit? Good call on loosing the stickers as well. Wheels look good as well. Would say colour code the bump strips but might be to much silver...

Love this, saw it at Micks a while back and enquired about this but you beat me to it ;) Can I just ask who you use for your dents and scuffs? Got a few similar things I need to sort. Thanks. EDIT: Just noticed the plate is very similar to my dead 182 OE04 YWN. Yep...

As Nick said, I had sportlines and new cup dampers and it rode better then my mates on Ktec coilies and handled a damnsight better in my opinion. I had Brembo discs, DS25000s, braided lines and ATE superblue fluid and it was more then enough.

Yeah Ive seen this one about as well, parks near the scrappys next to Tesco.

Thought it was only the dampers and springs that were different on the 172 Cups?

Timing chain tensioner? Mate had this problem on his cooper s. Common problem apparantly and will munch the engine according to the horror stories.

Yes. CNC'd I believe.

Come to the pub later and we will scour the classifieds!

How do you not know my username? Haha you call it me all the time! And again, I told you so ;) Clio power.

Im Derby/Notts way and looking at getting my 182 wheels done up there if you want to split fuel etc? And love the yellow beast btw!

Thanks for the info. So the seller doesnt need to do anything to the RSTuner before it is sent - I just need to purchase a new license based on my ECU. Is that correct?

Yeah, but does it need to be 'unlocked' by the old user? Or can I just buy a new license and do it myself? Im asking because it was supposed to be sent today and this would hold it up etc.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?420716-READ-before-you-buy-a-2nd-hand-RSTuner With reference to the above, I have bought a used RS Tuner and myself and the seller want to know whether it needs to be unlocked if the car type is the same? The thread mentions differences in license...

RB_stu has paid me and has taken my spot. Cheers. Gutted though :/

Ph1 is the first mk2 with the roundy headlights (Your shape). Ph2 is the mk2 with the pointy headlights (182/trophy etc). 1*2 is either 172/182. And theres not really much point in modifying it for speed imo. Headunit/speakers etc are all transferrable/sellable so do that if you need to...

Anybody interested in my slot? Dont think Im going to have the car sorted in time. Paypal me the money and its yours. Thanks.

Would it help with the 'uncertainty' I sometimes get from the rear end? Or will it make it snappier? I had an uprated rear ARB on my Type R and the rear would be twitchy on the limit.

Hi all, Looking on either getting the Pure motorsport topmounts and brace or the whiteline ARB... can anybody give me an opinion on the most worthwhile? Will have both eventually but looking for something over the summer to go with my turbines.

I put a little bit of copper grease on the splines to help it slide in, but otherwise no, the grease is all in the CV boots lol.

The balljoints are fixed, your more likely to knock the alignment out disconnecting the strut.

Remove the ball joint bolts onto the wishbone, gives you enough clearance to wiggle the shaft out of the hub. I unwound the nut about half way and tapped it out a bit, nothing to difficult really. Just be careful putting the new one in so you dont chew up the splines. And a recon one should be...

Yes, the balljoints themselves are fine, the bolts I was supplied arent the right ones and are moving about. I dont think there 10mm though but could be. Fred said that the aftermarket BJ bolts tend to work loose so best to use the OE ones, which I dont have.