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Agree the little 1.4 C1j lump is cheap to maintain and upgrade to an extent if well serviced and if boost is increased over standad the carb must be fettled properly to fuel for the boost otherwise you will be looking @ h/g down to your own stupid fault of not getting it setup. I love my little...
I would defo swap matey, it is pretty good fun to drive 200bhp ish as standard. No real problems just the coilpacks don't seem to last long I am on my 2nd set in 2 years and I buy the Genuine parts from Vauxhall no copies. Pretty quick for a big car aswell which surprises other cars.
300bhp
:lolup:
R u sure matey there are not many 5's that are actually doing that in fact I can think of only 2 - Gianni Santini & Stuart clarke and both these cars have pretty much a rebuild engine every time they are used (pod cars) they run alot of boost. And the knowledge and parts...
Hi Guys, Thought I would give a quick update on this. The F4r is now fully gone and I am back using the old C1J pushrod lump. Yes I know what you are all thinking what a fecking idiot for going from a modern 16v engine to an ancient 8v push rod engine, but with the the 5 the F4r is just to heavy...
Or you could get the upper block of a Volvo 440/480 turbo with the 1/7 F series lump in or the 1.7 GTX R5 n/a as it is the same part, also the adjustable bracket of those engines will also help you matey
The part number for the block where the alt attaches to the block is
82 00 031 832 - £44.17 inc VAT - Upper Alternator Block Adaptor,
77 00 718 613 - £23.50 inc VAT – Long Zinc Alternator Bracket (Adjustable),
77 03 101 094 - £3.90 inc VAT- Alternator long bolt,
77 03 101 073 - £1.56 inc VAT...
Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project
On a phase 1 172 ECU I have been told the only way around the immobiliser is by fitting an emualtor which Paul @ RStuning done on mine and it works no probs. I have also since had my ecu re-flashed with a Group N map aswell with no problem.
Couple of...
Well it's all up and running done 240 miles this eve in it without fault but not very happy not what I expected I am therefore going back to c1j but am selling the conversion package.
Yeah heat wrap was new, I will change oil to be on the safe side but give it time to go.
I am going to have to get rid of the powerflow sidey as so loud.
The r5 cable is defo 3 cables I will see what happens.
I have wired the fan up to an ignition live for now.
How tappey are the engines supposed to be as she sound tappey on idle and when revved I have checked oil level which is good and i know the oil type is correct. And to answer a question...
Just found out the gtt seed cable is a variabe reluctor and does not put out a signal like a modern hall effect or optical speed sensor. Anyone got any ideas how to convert this type of signal?
Cheers for that I was going to do the same thing but use my orginal GTT temp sender again this is a 2 wire connection and i still have the original connection in place so just be a case of drill and tapping and then extending the cable to get it fit.
I am using a standard 172 phase 1 loom so I...
Fianlly got it on the road (Still need to take for a good canning though)
Things to do
Temp gauge,
speed sensor queries re above posts,
Find out about how the OE 172 rad fan works (is it constantly on or does it come on when temp switch activatded???)
Yeah it is wired up being checking out a few other threads on this conversion into a mk1 Clio and the signal has been unsucesful I am now thinking will mine work? What colour wire did you all use?
Also how did you guys wire up the temp gauge? And does anybody know what colour wire does what to...
R5 speedo sensor still using the r5 box although i do have a 172 cup box in the shed if the gtt box isn't up for it. I will give it a longer run tomoz and if I feel confident with my conversion a bit if a canning obviously not exceeding speed limits
Well she is now up and running I have taken her for a quick drive around the block all seems good apart from my 2k idle (no icv) I am adjusting idle by the accelerator cable for now