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What have you tried? Sounds like your car is the issue rather than the hardware you're trying to connect

Are you talking about the pinch sleeve? That's supposed to be smooth as the bolt goes all the way thru that and it holds the alternator to the bracket

It's a trait when they're old and needs replacing. New clutches are really lightweight for a cable clutch. The 200 is hydraulic though so you can't really compare the two.

Valeo alternator for an A/C vehicle is normally a 110A AI12VI300 IIRC

Yes, the main pivot point has a threaded insert for the bolt to go into.

Means you have a short to positive mate and you need to fault find that line to see where it is shorting.

Brake test it

Personally I think it's going to be a keyfob that's at fault but I offer no assurance on that. Ideally it needs CLIP to carry out a network infrastructure test then go from there. Mick

Flashing is saying the key is not recognised/authorised to start the vehicle. Do you have a spare key (I'm guessing not otherwise you'd most likely have tried it already)? It could be a Key fault, UCH fault or a wiring issue (In cost order) Mick

Based on the description it could be any of the above items and unless there's an obvious issue (such as fluids in the spark plug wells) Jezza is right in his suggestion - it really needs a diagnostic session to see if you can narrow it down. Trial and error with parts may be cheaper but it...

You can't just "put" a light out, there's an issue that needs fixing.

Re: Anyone know what Renault charge for *just* a cambelt change, literally nothing el No one in their right mind will do that for you as you can't legally warrant a job like that. The way you say it is as if £300 is a lot.

It's better than "Ginger tosser" which is what I get at the minute (So hurtful)

Seems perfectly acceptable to me... blatently poor service from Henk there #sarcasm #rolleyes I'm looking to buy one purely for datalogging ECM/ABS parameters on newer cars (My current hardware doens't like the new CAN) - I'll give the OP £50 for his

Diagnosis required on the starter motor circuit to make sure it is functioning correctly before replacing the starter motor

As per you other post on the same subject in another section (Try and keep help threads to a single thread) it could also be oil pressure related and is not necessarily an oil level sensor issue. Mick

This warning is not automatically an oil level issue. It is a generic warning and is also used to warn you of low oil pressure so don't assume that just because you have an okay oil level that the level sensor IS the problem. Ideally you will check the oil level and then have the oil pressure...

Pete, You put a post up asking for help with an "unknown electrical issue" then proceed to put up a list of just about every ignition related item under the bonnet stating it may be one of these but you don't actually post a description of the symptoms which you've encountered. I'm good...

Deffo electrical but could be anything... needs looking at to say i'm afraid.

Dash top off and make sure it's correctly secured. Sounds like it isn't

Yes

Get it plugged in. Possibly a fault due to inconsistent speed signal via CAN

Mike rentec should be more than capable for this yes

Re: Spare Key Transponder > Car Alarm / Immobiliser / Central Locking Interaction Pro Depends where you're based but it needs to go to someone who can code keys

Reg isn't turning up anything on Renault WVS lookup but if it has "IDE" on the side bullets then it has what we call classic "IDE-AIDS" In layman terms the Fuel Pressure Regulator is failing when it gets hot so is seizing up internally allowing the fuel pressure to creep up without control...

Does the "Steering Wheel" light on the dash come on, go off and stay off when you start the car?

Re: Spare Key Transponder > Car Alarm / Immobiliser / Central Locking Interaction Pro As above, it's most likely unassigned to a vehicle but CLIP will tell you this.

I'm going to say its a 2.0 16v F5R IDE - Please confirm If unsure PM me the reg

Anywhere in or around Leicester will be good for me.

Yep! It's not a plated diff like the Gripper so doesn't *really* need anything special. Just put a GL4/GL4+ in, stop mincing about and driver the fookaz wheels off.